Monday, January 12, 2015

By AG

Hey everyone! As always, a new month means new limited edition shades from Shiro Cosmetics and Detrivore Cosmetics. Let's check them out!

My fabulous co-blogger Kristin kindly swatched these for me, since I didn't have an opportunity to do so while our very shy winter sun was out. Thanks, Kristin!

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From the website: Ziggy played guitar, jamming good with Weird and Gilly, And the Spiders from Mars.

January’s Color of the Month is inspired by David Bowie and Pantone’s 2015 Color of the Year!

Brightened, slightly metallic Marsala red with blue shimmer (difficult to photograph, much stronger in person). Suggestion by Alisha P.

Ingredients: mica, carnauba wax, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide. Lip-safe!

Personal Comments: This is a very pretty shade that blends out to a slightly sparkly burgundy/cool red, in a similar vein to Detrivore Sanguine Addiction. When applied wet or over a sticky base, it takes on that really gorgeous classic foiled finish and becomes more opaque and sparkly. The non-macro swatch (lower left in the collage above) looks the most color-accurate on my monitor. I will say the blue shimmer is much more apparent in the jar than on my lids, even over a sticky base, unless I'm standing in very bright light. I don't think it detracts from the shade by any means, but it's something to keep in mind if the blue sparkles were your primary draw for this shade.

Purchase Link
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From the website: Vegan, Not Lip Safe

Medium turquoise blue with subtle shimmer and sparkle.

Ingredients: serecite mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide, ferric ferrocyanide.

Personal Comments: This is a lovely medium blue (perhaps a little brighter than came through in the swatch photos) with gold shimmer. The site photos had me expecting a cobalt blue, so please keep in mind it's less intense than that. I had no problem getting this shade opaque over just silicone primer. As you'd expect, the shimmer was mild to moderate over a silicone base and came out much more over a sticky base.
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From the website: Vegan, Lip Safe

Soft, sheer, sparkling cool silver.

Ingredients: serecite mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide.

Personal Comments: This is indeed a sheer, sparkling silver. I really appreciate the site description stating up front that this is a sheer shade; it's always helpful to set expectations appropriately. I was able to build it up by packing a couple layers over a sticky base, but this shade is much happier staying sheer. If you're looking for a full-on metallic silver, I'm happy with Shiro Huntress (swatches to come... eventually).

Even with my expectations for opacity set appropriately, though, I don't think Spectre is among Detrivore best performers. I had a TON of glittery fallout and generally couldn't get it to stay where I put it. It's very pretty, but just be aware you'll need a bit of extra work to wrangle it.

Purchase Link
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I also put together a couple eye looks while testing out the shades. First up, a so-called "halo" or "tulip" eye look based on this video tutorial from the superbly talented Karima of Shameless Fripperies. Her shadow skills are leagues above my own, but here's what I came up with:

Halo/tulip eye featuring Detrivore Phantasm and Spectre, taken in overcast lighting

Halo/tulip eye featuring Detrivore Phantasm and Spectre, taken in overcast lighting
My apologies for the photo quality - it is seriously gray outside! I encourage you to watch Karima's video for a detailed guide to this kind of look, but here's a general idea of what I did:

1. As always, I started with a thin layer of silicone primer all over my lid, browbone, and lower lashline. I used Urban Decay Primer Potion.

2. I used a tapered blending brush to place Blackbird Cosmetics Dog Days (a matte neutral brown) in my crease and blend it pretty far up my browbone.

3. I used a different blending brush to add some Blackbird Cosmetics Smudge (a matte gray-leaning taupe) into my crease. I blended it into Dog Days but didn't blend it out as far.

4. I placed a white eyeshadow base (I used NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk) on the middle of my lid and blended it lightly in place.

5. I packed Detrivore Phantasm on the inner and outer corners of my eyelid, leaving the white base on the middle untouched.

6. I packed Detrivore Spectre on the center of my lid, right on the white base. I wasn't totally satisfied with its pigmentation over the white base, so I applied some Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy over Spectre, Once it had 30-60 seconds to set a bit, I patted more Spectre on top.

7. I blended the crap out of everything, but tried not to go overboard on the transitions between Spectre and Phantasm. I used Detrivore Ossuary (a shade very close to my skin tone) to clean up and blend out the outer edges of the shadow.

8. I added Detrivore Lobotomy (pale gold satin) to my inner corner as a highlight.

9. I cleaned up the copious glittery fallout from Spectre. You can still see some on the tops of my lashes above. If you are also not in the habit of putting mascara on the tops of your lashes, learn from my mistake and take care to clean them off after using Spectre!

10. I applied Phantasm and Spectre in the same sandwich pattern on my lower lashline and blended. Once again, I used Pixie Epoxy to make Spectre stand out more.

11. As always, I tightlined with black eyeliner, applied mascara and undereye concealer, and filled in my brows to finish the look.

12. Bonus: I didn't get any good photos of this, but I ended up adding black eyeliner all across the upper and lower waterlines, including the inner corner. I liked how this step grounded the pretty dramatic look.

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I also wanted to see how Shiro Ziggy performed as a single-color look:

Shiro Cosmetics Ziggy eye look, shown in indoor lighting

Shiro Cosmetics Ziggy eye look, shown in indoor lighting

Aside from the fact that I blended the shadow way too high in my inner corner, I was pretty happy with this look. Ziggy blends itself out nicely! Here's how I did it:

1. After silicone primer, I put a light layer of Shiro Ziggy all over the lid, through the crease, and along the lower lashline, then used Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy on my mobile lid and patted Ziggy on top to make it more intense. My lighting makes it look patchy in the closed eye shot above, but rest assured this is my mistake, not a problem with the product.

2. I had a harsh line where the Pixie Epoxy ended, so I used a slightly damp brush with (you guessed it) more Ziggy on it to blend out that edge.

3. Tightlining was super important here, because red shadows make me look kind of ill without a black border between the shadow and my eyeball.

4. Brows, mascara, undereye concealer, the works. I cheated and added Detrivore Lobotomy as an inner corner highlight because that shade and I are buddies.

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And that's a wrap on the first limited edition Shiro and Detrivore shades of the new year! Have a wonderful week, everyone!

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2 comments:

  1. I've been waiting for this post to decide if I want Ziggy, and it's so pretty I think I do. It's super helpful to see it on the eye too.

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    Replies
    1. If you pick it up, I hope you enjoy it! And I'm really glad it's helpful to see it on the eye :)

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