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| So many choices! Where to begin? There are lots of indie companies that offer a unique collection of scents. |
The magical world of indie scents is an exciting thing to explore. If you're like me, maybe the idea of a "perfume" (or "cologne" or whatever you like to call your smellies) is a little frightening. You think back to all the times you encountered fragrances in the past: that one aunt whose baby-powder-lavender-kisses stick to your clothes, the teacher you had in middle school who thought he was hot stuff straight out of college and doused himself in a thick cloud of perfume that left the entire classroom in a spicy smog, that chick in your math class who thought she was fooling everyone when she sprayed herself down with "Tropical Breeze" after smoking in the bathroom...
Clearly these aren't personal experiences of mine (ahem), but just like makeup can be intimidating if you haven't been exposed to it properly ("Oh no, I don't want to look like a clown!"), scents can be equally if not more daunting to the inexperienced. But unlike makeup, where you can check out swatches and watch YouTube gurus teach you application methods, fragrances stray into that intangible, nebulous grey area, where you really only have an ingredient list, someone's written explanation, and your own nose to pass judgment.
Why Fragrances?
There's something really powerful about fragrances. A scent can bring us back in time, trigger long forgotten memories, and remind us of people, places, and experiences. There are even studies detailing the success of aromatherapy on patients with Alzheimer's disease.Some simply want to smell nice. Others desire to create a lasting impression that transcends beyond the visual. It can be a fashion statement, a declaration of uniqueness, an extension of your personality. Above all, explore perfume for yourself first. Find fragrances that are pleasing to you. Trying indie scents is a unique way to explore all sorts of different options with minimal risk.
Types of Fragrances (by Concentration)
"I dunno, 'perfume' just sounds so... girly," my boyfriend whined when I first told him I found some great indie perfumes to try out. "I want cologne...that's for men, right?"Wrong! Even I wasn't aware of the difference at first, but it all comes down to concentration and duration. There are certain "fragrance families" that are associated with being masculine or feminine, but that's for later.
Although many indie companies predominantly stick with oil-based perfumes, it doesn't hurt to know the different types. The type is usually determined by how concentrated it is and its staying power.
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| 4711 is the most famous cologne brand. See all that water? Cologne is very light and watered down. |
Eau de Cologne (Cologne)
Cologne usually refers to anything using 2-5% essential oils or extracts, usually suspended in water and/or diluted alcohol. (Kölnisch Wasser, “Water of Cologne” - so when you think cologne, think of scented water).It doesn't last long, it's usually sprayed on, and it can be applied repeatedly without being offensive since it is so light. Many are citrusy scents.
Eau de Toilette
Here's a nice way to say "toilet water." Eau de toilette is slightly more potent than eau de cologne, using 5-15% aromatic compounds. However, it's still pretty weak. People apply it all over after a shower, and since it is diluted in water and alcohol, it evaporates quickly. You'll see certain products called "Rose Water," "Lavender Water," "Lilac Water," etc. and these are usually eau de toilette scents.Eau de Parfum
If things couldn't get confusing enough, eau de parfum is just a few more notches up on the intensity scale, using 10-20% (typically 15%) aromatic compounds. It's beefier than cologne and toilet water. It lasts longer than the others as well.Perfume/Parfum
Perfume is basically anything 20+ in the percentage of compounds. There are other categories (perfume extracts, espirit de parfum, etc.), but basically a perfume is the most concentrated, long-lasting fragrance. Many perfumes are suspended in some sort of carrier oil (such as rice bran oil, coconut oil, etc). Product sizes are smaller because it only takes a small amount to pack a punch. Instead of spraying perfume on, you apply a tiny amount to your pulse points (like your wrists).What's a "Fragrance Family"?
In the "Fragrance Wheel" there are four main categories: Woody, Fresh, Floral, and Oriental. At the center is Fougère, which has elements from the outside four groups.
There are also scents that are regarded as "masculine" and "feminine." Masculine scents are often smoky, woodsy, or spicy. Feminine scents lean towards the floral and fruity. However, just because a scent is fruity doesn't mean it's "only" for women, and many scents can also work very nicely as a unisex fragrance.
There are plenty of in-depth guides that break things down even further, but these are the core groups. Keep in mind that just because you're a man/woman doesn't mean you have to stick with scents that match!
What are "Notes"?
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Ever learn about a story arc? It starts off with your intro, leading to rising action, punctured with a climax and then falling action tying everything up in the conclusion (obviously there are more complicated arcs as well).
Your perfume has a similar "adventure" while sitting on your skin. You might see the anatomy of perfumes' notes depicted as a pyramid, but I find I understand it better when I give my perfume its own story arc because your perfume is constantly in a state of evaporation and change while on your skin.
- Top Notes are what you smell immediately after you apply it. They evaporate the quickest.
- Middle Notes or "heart notes" (since it's the "heart" of your fragrance) are left behind after the top notes evaporate. Middle notes aren't as sharp or intense as the top notes since they're more grounded.
- Base Notes evaporate last. They are the sturdy foundation of your perfume and form the "anchor" to your skin. After the top notes and middle notes are gone, the base note is left behind. It's usually a richer, heavier scent.
- Sillage - Not a note, but worth mentioning. Different perfumes will react differently with your skin - some will cling closely, whereas others will leave an invisible cloud trailing behind you. A perfume with minimal sillage will cling closely.
What Can I Get That's Indie?
Most indie companies have perfume oils or solids (imagine like a stick of soap, but instead it's a waxy block of smells!) for sale, not colognes or toilet waters. This is great for you, the consumer, because you're getting a concentrated product that lasts much longer than something diluted with a lot of water or alcohol.Also, many indie companies offer small sample vials for their perfume oils - attached to the lid is a little wand dipped in the oil you can swipe across your pulse points. Samples are excellent because you can try many different scents without spending a lot of money, and because each application is so small, a sample vial can last a long time.
Why Should I Buy Indie Fragrances?
Sure you can walk into Macy's and pick up a Nautica spray. It's easy and fast, and you have hundreds of reviews on Amazon to rely on, maybe even an easy return policy and swanky packaging. But there are lots of great reasons why you should give indie perfumes a shot:- Uniqueness - You know why there are hundreds of reviews for that Nautica spray on Amazon? Because hundreds of other people have tried it. Some people view their perfume as an extension of themselves, a personality implied through scent, and you're more likely to find something unique by shopping indie.
- Customization - It's not uncommon for an indie vendor to offer custom blended scents. So if you really are looking to be unique, or maybe there's this combination you want to try, many indie sellers will blend scents of your choice without breaking the bank.
- Affordability - Since most indie scents are oils or solids, they pack a punch and last a long time. Even a tiny $2-3 sample vial can go a really, really long way. Don't be surprised if some free samples are tossed in too, and when you consider how long sample sizes last it's twice the value.
- Community & Customer Service - If having a voice and making your feedback count matters to you, you're more likely to make a difference with an indie shop than voicing your opinions in your Amazon product review. Also, you're "giving back" to the community by supporting small business.
Fragrances FAQ
Where do I buy indie fragrances?There are lots of places to choose from! (This list will constantly be changing.)
- Independent Shops
- Etsy Shops
But say you can't get your hands on samples from a particular seller... then what? The thought of forking over the money to buy a full-sized product when you haven't even tested it yet is a little scary! Some sellers are considerate enough to bottle up a sample vial, custom-made just for you if asked.
However, sometimes you might not get so lucky, so you might have to hunt around a bit. You might find samples (and other long-gone limited fragrances) for sale on eBay. Also, "decant circles" (which is not nearly as black-magicky as it sounds) will decant full-sized oils using pipettes to transfer them to sample containers for people when unable to get ahold of sample sizes.
You want to apply your perfume to areas that generate heat, since your body heat will stimulate it. Many perfume oils have a small wand attached to the lid you can swipe across your pulse points (wrists, neck, chest, thighs, inner elbow, etc). If there is no wand, you can use a q-tip. A perfume solid is along the same idea, just a different medium. Some people press their wrists together after applying perfume, but there's some debate as to whether or not this "damages" the purity of the scents.
Sometimes certain fragrances might contain ingredients that can be irritating on the skin. A fragrance doesn't always have to be applied directly to the skin - you can put it in your hair or on clothing to get the same scented effect. Even if you don't have any sensitive reactions to a particular fragrance, it might just not play nicely with your skin chemistry, so these alternatives are a nice way to work around that.
How much you apply is dependent on your preference. Some fragrances are stronger than others, so it's always important to start small - you can always add more! Whether it's a drop or two or maybe a quick swipe from your sample wand, you'll find that sweet spot where it's just right for you after a bit of practice.
So what are they... sprays? oils? Help!
While aromatic compounds can be suspended in carrier oils, there are all kinds of different forms a fragrance can take, both solid and liquid, and they can be stored and in a variety of ways as well.
- Oils: Oil-based fragrances are more concentrated, so they're usually in small, glass containers. There's a variety of seals and caps that can be used.
- Eurodropper caps - allow the oil to be distributed in drops, similar to a bottle of hot sauce. Unfortunately, similar to hot sauce, sometimes they can be a little less than accurate, so you might get more than you bargained for once in a while!
- Polyseal caps - contain a small dome inside to minimize spilling and leaking.
- Reducer caps - not a fan of pipettes? Maybe they're just too messy or you're a bit clumsy. Reducer caps have a small tube attached that hold drops of oil, similar to eurodroppers.
- Rollerballs - similar to a rollerball deodorant, this allows you to roll your fragrance wherever you want.
- Sprays: Suspended in light oils such as rice bran, sprays are for spraying (imagine that!) - on your skin, clothes, hair, significant other's clothing... your options are endless.
- Solids: Just like a twist-up deodorant bar, solids are a similar, smooth chunk of oils and fragrances that can be swiped across skin. They can be contained in tubes, jars, or even little pieces of jewelry! They're one of the easier forms to carry around on the go so long as the temperature doesn't get too warm.
Why so many storage and application options? Everyone has different preferences. Some people do not feel comfortable contaminating their fragrance oils with their skin via direct contact. For others, portability and convenience are a top priority.
How do I store my fragrances?
Keep
your perfumes in a cool, dry place with the lid properly sealed. You
don't want your perfume to evaporate, and the oils can also go rancid
depending on which ones are used as a base. Even with preservatives,
you should still be mindful of how you store your scents.Also, if you're using a perfume oil, give the vial a little shake. Sometimes things settle. I've found some scents of mine seem to lose some of their punch if I let them settle.
Help! My XYZ perfume doesn't smell like XYZ on me!
You are a result of your environment, and your skin is no exception. The foods you eat, how hydrated you are, the soaps and lotions you use, your household cleaners and environment, your genetics, your hormones, and a whole slew of other variables all contribute to your skin's chemistry.
This is entirely up for debate, as some believe there is no such thing, others argue that you find a scent that has been mixed with your own "personal" odor to be more pleasing as opposed to the same scent mingling with someone else's scent. However, it's worth taking into account because everyone experiences fragrances differently.
You're totally wrong about XYZ!
I'm still a beginner too, so if I miss the mark please let me know!
Sources:
Fragrance Anatomy - Caldrea
Fragrance Families - The Perfumed Court
Notes - Fragrantica
Perfume - Wikipedia
The Fragrance Wheel - Fragrances of the World
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