Sunday, May 31, 2015

Jessye Gets Bubbly! Extra Edition: Haus of Gloi's Summer 2015!



Haus of Gloi Summer 2015

Four reviews in a row! If we’re not careful, I’m going to start thinking you guys like me.

As is always the case when a more popular brand does a seasonal release, we want to get our reviews out as soon as possible. So we’re looking at Haus of Gloi’s Summer release today. Weirdly, both Kristin and I only purchased these as soaps, which means mostly top notes.

Kristin adds: Haus of Gloi will be restocking their summer collection on June 14th but it will not include whipped soaps. They will not be offering whipped soaps again until part 2 of their fall release due to the problems shipping in heat. The summer restock will include bar soaps and "refreshers" - misting sprays.

Kristin: In other, really exciting news, Haus of Gloi will be doing a Reverie release on July 12th! They haven't had one in a while (since last fall I believe) and if this will be your first, here's the blurb from their website:
Reverie products are creations that do not make it into my seasonal releases or general catalog.  These fragrances and products will be sporadic, random, and depending on popularity, will either be cast into oblivion or made into a general catalog/limited edition. Each fragrance will come in a random medium (ie. soap, scrub, perfume) and made in limited batches.
Without further ado-

The Brier Path

A sun drenched trail leading to a daydream of ripe wild berries and woods’ rose, rich forest loam, ozone, dark amber and cream.
I was really excited about this scent for a lot of reasons. Berries are very summer for me, having never been berry picking, cherry picking, apple picking, or any kind of picking. And I love summer scents that don’t smell like a tropical paradise since my summers were spent in the Midwest.

When you open this jar and smell it dry, it smells almost fake, heavy on berry and very little else. It lacks depth. There’s a bit of green underbrush, but overall it is not the most pleasant of dry smells. In the shower, when it hits the water, it flourishes. It smells like being in the middle of a forest and smelling berries and roses. Nothing is overly strong or as if you have just shoved your face in the middle of a berry patch but like it is nearby and you can smell it wafting in on the breeze. It’s really beautiful to call it The Brier Path because it is quite like wandering down a path and finding such lovely smells.

Kristin adds: There's something in The Brier Path that's reminiscent of Milkmaid from the Haus' Spring Collection. In comparison, The Brier Path is definitely more green to Milkmaid's soft floral but there's something in both that hits the same chord. In this soap, the berries are the strongest note for me. The cream note takes it to the sweet side but there's definitely something darker lingering.

Driftwood

Sun bleached driftwood, dry black musk, warm sand, dune grasses and a damp oceanic breeze.
AG gifted me her bottle of Driftwood a couple months ago from last year’s collection. I really quite loved the soft water smell that reminded me of her. So I naturally bought a jar of soap. This is a deeper scent than HoG’s Spring water scent Selkie. It is softer but darker as well. I really am going to fail at trying to describe this scent because it is almost impossible for me to do. But it is quite lovely and quite fantastic. I would strongly recommend it if you like water scents but have little idea how else to describe to you.

Kristin adds: Of the soaps that we purchased, Driftwood was the artistic of the bunch with grey swirls throughout the soap.

Komodo

Mangosteen, Tahitian vanilla bean, dragons blood resin and faded tropical blooms.
Kristin: I believe that all products in this scent are sold out for the year. :( Haus of Gloi announced on their Facebook page that items in this scent would only last until supplies ran out since the mangosteen note was discontinued by suppliers. However, they're currently looking for a new mangosteen replacement so hopefully this one will come back in future releases!

Kristin: This soap went on my list after I found out that it's one of my co-blogger's, Lisa's, favorites! She has a fantastic nose for scents and I knew that I'd have to give this one a try.

Kristin: I've never had or even seen a mangosteen before - not related to mangos by the way, despite the name - so I have no idea if the soap smells like the fruit but the soap has a very strong, tangy, not quite citrus-y but just as sharp note to it that dominates. There's a slight hint of vanilla, more as a rounding sense than an actual presence. And a light floral in the background on drydown.


Sanctum

A welcome respite: Muskmelon, coconut water infused with bergamot flower, kaffir lime, polished ho wood and sticky benzoin. 
Kristin: I'd never heard of "muskmelon" before this description blurb and from my wikipedia search, learned that muskmelon is a species of melon that includes honeydew, cantaloupe, and many other cultivated varieties. The melon is by far the strongest note in this soap.

Kristin: I smelled this and I instantly thought of Hi-Chew Melon candy. Jessye picked up a bag of the stuff and I immediately ran around and made everyone smell both the candy and the soap. All polled noses agreed, really close to an exact match - at least right out of the jar.

Kristin: In the shower, the scent softens a bit away from the candy sweet but still retains a strong melon - to my nose, honeydew in specific, scent.

Kristin: The soap itself is a soft pinky color. Besides Driftwood, Sanctum is the only other whipped soap from this release that differs from the normal white.

Sol

The sun at its apex: Dry gingergrass, litsea, cubeba, neroli, frankincense tears, saffron infused honey, rosemary and the faint touch of true cinnamon.
There are a lot of scents here that I don’t know how to identify. I’m going to be honest with you. I didn’t know gingergrass existed until I saw it as an ingredient in this soap. The soaps smells like the ginger version of lemongrass. It’s neither as sharp nor as astringent as ginger- the grass smoothing the scent. It’s really lovely and clean to me, certainly like a mythical sun shining down on me. Mr. J finds a bitterness in it that he doesn’t enjoy, which is sad since it was purchased for him, but lucky for me since I do quite enjoy the sharp scent and un-muddled scent.

Zazz

When something feels a bit lackluster, dull and boring, it obviously is lacking zazz. To fix this we recommend something definitely zazzy and not overly complicated: Tart cranberry, pink grapefruit, sparkling champagne all shook up with crushed ginger root.

Kristin: Haus of Gloi included a sample perfume vial of Zazz in my last order and I knew that I'd be getting this one in soap form. This straight up smells like ginger ale. It's perfectly ginger ale in a sweet and lightly ginger form including the sense of carbonation to make your nose just slightly tingly. In the shower, there's a slight hint of a cola note that I'm not sure the origin of.

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Kristin: And that's a wrap! Did you guys pick up anything this round? Waiting for anything in the restock? I know that refreshers are eagerly awaited. I'm personally curious about the bar soap selection! I've wanted to try one for awhile but they're usually only available in limited circumstances. Do you have any recommendations for which I should try?

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Thursday, May 28, 2015

Company Overview! A very limited look at Indigo Bananas!



Indigo Bananas is an indie nail polish company with a wide assortment of polishes on offer. However, I stumbled onto the company in my search for a new cuticle balm.

Since I started on my exploration into indie bath and body products, it's been harder and harder to justify the price of Lush products though I have yet to find suitable alternatives for many of the bubble-generating products that they're so well known for. I wandered in one day to take a look at their new fun shaped bath products and to my dismay, discovered one of my all-time favorite Lush products, the Lemony Flutter Cuticle Butter.

It's creamy and moisturizing and the Lemon PEZ scent makes my hands smell edible. My nail-beds have been pretty dry lately and they've been loving this stuff but the $16 price tag was a little hard to swallow (that's 7 Fyrinnae mini eyeshadows!!). I turned to the indie world for an alternative.

Packaging: 

I purchased one cuticle balm and it was plastic-sealed and nicely cushioned in a bubble envelope. My item came in a bubble envelope. I'm not sure if nail polishes are sent any differently though I imagine they're a bit more fragile.

It looks like Indigo Banana may have changed their labeling since my order since on the website, mini cuticle balms have a black logo on the jars whereas on mine, it's white. On the bottom label, the sticker also specifies if a flavor/scent is lip safe.

Selection: 

If I were a nail polish person, I think I'd be going crazy over this selection. Their website is nicely organized and you can sort by collection (they do offer seasonal releases), color, finish, and popularity. As for cuticle balms, they offer a plain, unscented version as well as a variety of different scents.

Samples: 

They don't offer "samples" per se but they do have mini versions at a reduced price. For nail polishes, they sell 8ml mini versions, compared to 15ml full sized, and 10ml mini cuticle balms, compared to 20ml full sized. 


Quality: 

I purchased a mini cuticle balm in the "Lemon" scent.

I picked this cuticle balm in particular because it contains a lot of similar ingredients to the Lush product that I am trying to substitute.

Ingredients: Avocado oil, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, beeswax, caprylic/capric/stearic glycerides (palm oil derived), jojoba oil, lanolin, isopropyl myristate, meadowfoam seed oil, vitamin E, scent

It definitely has all of the components of a very moisturizing product and sinks in pretty quickly for a balm. Unfortunately for me, it doesn't last very long and I need to reapply often to stay moisturized - though that may be a characteristic of how badly I'm treating my hands and not of the product.

Cost:

Cuticle balms are $5 for the mini and $8 for the full sized. Nail polishes vary in price but mini's seem to be either $6.25 or $7.25 and full sizes, $10 or $12.

They also have a sale section where things get a little cheaper. 

Customer Service: 

No personal experience though they seem responsive on their Facebook page.

TAT: 

I received a shipping notice one day after I placed my order and it was in my hands 11 days after that. In their FAQ's section, TAT is listed as 3-5 days, extending to 7 days right after releases.

Shipping: 

Very reasonable and by weight it seems though I only purchased one very light item. First class shipping starts at $2.65.

For non-US consumers, Indigo Banana's products are also offered by a number of distributors globally so that may help with the shipping cost.

Personal Thoughts:

I'm sorry to only report on the cuticle balm! Indigo Bananas is much more widely known for their nail polishes but my personal buying experience was great and I see no reason to not expect the same with nail polish orders.

Have you tried any of their polishes? What did you think?

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Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Swatch Post! The Miyazaki Lip Balms from Shiro Cosmetics!

Purchased


Continuing the series of "Swatches of things we've already reviewed on a different set of lips," here's the original Collection Spotlight of Shiro's Miyazaki Lip Balms. I can't believe that it's already been a year since we last looked at these! 


P.S. I'm not sure how I got four of these shades in black tubes. I ordered those from Femme Fatale where sadly A Girl and a Cat was sold out. I stole AG's version for this post. I'll never be able to finish my set since now all of the tubes come in silver and having four black tubes and one silver tube would drive me crazy. :(

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Shiro Cosmetics Miyazaki Lip Balms A Girl And A Cat
Add caption

From the website: Deep purple in the tube, applies as a medium-sheer berry.

Ingredients: coconut oil, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, red #33, blue #1, iron oxide, castor oil, tocopherol, flavor.

Personal Comments: Don't be fooled by how dark this looks in the tube! Given how dark it looks there, it actually applies pretty sheerly in a muted red-purple shade. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken inside under daylight bulbs.


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Shiro Cosmetics Miyazaki Lip Balms Come Out Come Out

From the website: Sheer, pretty apricot.

Ingredients: coconut oil, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, yellow #6, iron oxide, castor oil, tocopherol, flavor.

Personal Comments: A very sheer shade due to the color. This yellow combined with my natural lip color gave me a bit of an orange tint that I didn't find particularly flattering. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken inside under daylight bulbs.


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Shiro Cosmetics Miyazaki Lip Balms It's Called Love

From the website: Summery medium coral, a match for our former Why Not Zoidberg color.

Ingredients: coconut oil, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, red #40, yellow #6, red #27, iron oxide, castor oil, tocopherol, flavor.

Personal Comments: A nice pinky red on me. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken inside under daylight bulbs.

This shade left a hot pink stain that lingered. 

It's Called Love stain


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Shiro Cosmetics Miyazaki Lip Balms Who Swallowed A Star

From the website: Bright coral-orange in the tube, applies a bit pinker than you might expect! Will leave behind a light stain.

Ingredients: coconut oil, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, red #27, red #6, iron oxide, castor oil, tocopherol, flavor.

Personal Comments: On my lips, this was a bold red. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken inside under daylight bulbs.

This shade also left a lingering hot pink shade. An even brighter pink stain than It's Called Love.

Who Swallowed a Star stain



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Shiro Cosmetics Miyazaki Lip Balms With Eyes Unclouded

From the website: Sheer brick red with a slight brown undertone.

Ingredients: coconut oil, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, red #40, iron oxide, castor oil, tocopherol, flavor.

Personal Comments: The brown notes came out strongly and with less red than I would have guessed. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken inside under daylight bulbs.


Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Perfume Review! Latitude from OHWTO

Latitude from OHWTO
Fruity summer fun from OHWTO!

I can appreciate a complex, unique fragrance, but sometimes I just want to smell fun and simple. As the weather continues to warm up (and I'm on holiday!) I find myself reaching for fruity, flirty fragrances to reflect how cheerful I am now that summer is on its way! After sitting in my little perfume shoebox for far too long, finally my bottle of OHWTO's Latitude can see the light of day and get a bit of use. I've been waiting to try it!

Monday, May 25, 2015

Swatch Post! Fyrinnae Lip Lustres in Ocelot, Pygmy Hippo, Glamorous Rebel, Dragon's Blood, and Saloon Girl!

Purchased

All of these shades have previously reviewed on Indie Know but here are some swatches on different lips!

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From the website: Matte warm dusty-rose pink, very close to the soft pink of an Ocelot kitten's paw pads and nose. 

Ingredients: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Mica, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Glycerides, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E, as a natural oil preservative), Flavor (lip-safe fragrance). May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Manganese Violet, Iron Oxides, Synthetic Flurophogopite, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Red #7, Red#6, Red #21, Red #27, Blue #1, Red #40.

Personal Comments: A soft pink with a really nice almost fully matte finish. I love this shade for casual, everyday wear. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken indoor under daylight bulbs.


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From the website: Matte medium rosey plum shade, not quite mauve. Neutral-warm. 

Ingredients: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Mica, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Glycerides, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E, as a natural oil preservative), Flavor (lip-safe fragrance). May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Manganese Violet, Iron Oxides, Synthetic Flurophogopite, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Red #7, Red#6, Red #21, Red #27, Blue #1, Red #40.

Personal Comments: Darker than Ocelot, Pygmy Hippo is a darker pink with hints of purple. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken indoor under daylight bulbs.


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From the website: Bright, rich cherry red. A cool hue, but should work for most neutral and olive skintones as well. Matte finish (no shimmer but applies with a slight glossiness), and is likely to stain.

Ingredients: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Mica, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Glycerides, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E, as a natural oil preservative), Flavor (lip-safe fragrance). May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Manganese Violet, Iron Oxides, Synthetic Flurophogopite, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Red #7, Red#6, Red #21, Red #27, Blue #1, Red #40.

Personal Comments: A bold red. Many people love Dragon's Blood as their perfect red but the finish of Glamorous Rebel makes it a winner for me. The shade is a bright, classic red with a "just licked," almost wet-looking shine. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken indoor under daylight bulbs.


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From the website: Dragon's Blood is a deep, rich, cool matte maroon-red, inspired by the vampy lipsticks of the 1920s. Can be applied as a lighter "berry stain" shade over balm.

Ingredients: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Mica, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Glycerides, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E, as a natural oil preservative), Flavor (lip-safe fragrance). May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Manganese Violet, Iron Oxides, Synthetic Flurophogopite, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Red #7, Red#6, Red #21, Red #27, Blue #1, Red #40.

Personal Comments: This is AG's favorite red. It's a deep but not dark red with an almost matte finish. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken indoor under daylight bulbs.



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From the website: Dark metallic wine, leaning warm. Fades to a warm wine-red stain.

Ingredients: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Mica, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Glycerides, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E, as a natural oil preservative), Flavor (lip-safe fragrance). May contain: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Manganese Violet, Iron Oxides, Synthetic Flurophogopite, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Red #7, Red#6, Red #21, Red #27, Blue #1, Red #40.

Personal Comments: These are actually my lips here but this is a shot taken indoors so you can see there's a bit of a color difference. The metallic finish shines and this looks more brown-toned outdoors than inside. Applied over bare lips. This picture was taken indoor under daylight bulbs.


Sunday, May 24, 2015

Jessye Gets Bubbly! Falling in love with Future Primitive! Part 2: The Scents


Future Primitive 
Part 2: The Scents

Woo! I am very excited to write this review. I’m even writing this before Saturday! I am sorry to tell you some of them scents we will be reviewing are Spring Scents. And they, as of Tuesday, started a Flash Sale to get rid of stock. All Spring items are currently 30% off and listed in the clearance section.

There is currently a little left but it is possible some of these will not be available until next Spring, for which I apologize. I hate reviewing things I’m making you wait for. I lack patience though. You might be luckier than I in that department.

Hopefully this review is comprehensive because as I’m writing it, it certainly doesn’t feel comprehensive, but that could be my brain. So here we go, first the spring scents followed by general catalogue and limited editions.

Spring Scents


The Ancients

A circle of stones rests upon a hill in deepest Oxfordshire. Handkerchief wishes hang from a Cananga tree, dried Mandarin peelings from spells cast long ago sit inside the King stone, and Patchouli leaf softly smoulders in an earthenware bowl casting a trail of aromatic smoke across the countryside.
This is a beautiful story for a scent, but it wasn’t very helpful in trying to decide if I would like it. I was game for it anyway, but Mr. J was wary. Turns out, everything in this scent I bought is for him. He loves it. He said, “A very strong fennel or anise scent on a complex palette that came alive when the water hit it, slipping in and out of scents.” It’s a beautiful idea. It’s a surprisingly dark scent- what you would potentially stereotypically expect of an ancient witch’s cottage- if you’re an American, a Salem witch’s house. It’s dark for Spring, it’s something I would have expected in the Autumn, but it is wonderful.

Purchase Link

Ethereal Seas

The scent of British Seaside Flora carried on a warm Breeze. Stimulating Basil, Lime & Bergamot balanced with Pelargonium leaf.
I spent some time trying to decide how to explain this one. Smelling it straight out of the bottle, the Conditioning Hair Rinse smells heavily of salt. When I used it in the shower, it began to smell of body sweat- that wet salt smell. It was a scent that the more I used it, the more accustomed to it I grew, but I would never claim I liked it. I believe this has something to do with me. I tried a Sea Kelp scented after-shave balm recently and discovered the same problem. Yes, there should be some salt scent, but more than just salt. All I can smell is salt.

Mr. J’s response is as follows:
“No more Ethereal Seas kisses.” (It was in my hair and must have run onto my face.)
“Why not?”
“Is gross.”

Kristin adds: I picked this up in the Bubbling Sugar Buff and I also thought that it just smelled like straight salt in the jar. In the shower, the basil comes out really strongly and that becomes the dominant scent. I do get a little bit of a citrus-y lime after rinsing.

Purchase Link

Gossamer Ghost

A Whisper of simmering Neroli oil intertwined with yellow Grapefruit zest & pungent Coriander seed.
I only bought this in Bathing Grains, which sometimes will not allow for such a deep scent and only give you the top notes, much like soap does. This smelled like Fruit Loops or sugared orange peel and not much else. Hopefully AG has a little better idea than I.

AG adds: Ms. Bubbles kindly passed her Bathing Grains on to me to try out. I have a really tenuous relationship with neroli, also known as orange blossom (seriously, Haus of Gloi's Honeybelle smells like pepper jelly to me) so I wasn't sure how I'd feel about this particular scent. Fortunately, this is legitimately the nicest neroli note I've experienced so far. It still had that slightly bitter edge that doesn't appeal to me, but it was otherwise soft and sweet. Neroli was far and away the dominant scent for me in these Bathing Grains; I couldn't pick out the grapefruit or coriander at all.


Towanda

A warm southern breeze, rainy summer days, fresh picked herbs, Tomato flesh, Bergamot leaf & Moss covered tree stumps.
I have only tried this is a sample soap and only a couple times, at that. The sample went to Kristin, who passed it onto me when she decided she didn’t like. This smells like a light herbal to me. Mostly bergamot and some tomato, maybe a bit of basil. I really like it in my kitchen where it doesn’t interfere with food smells. It’s fresh and light.

Kristin adds: I was surprised that I really liked the smell of this as a dry soap. See, I kind of hate tomatoes. When dry, it did smell like tomatoes but a very subtle tomato. As if you had just cut open a very wet tomato and the tomato smell was mixed with the water. Unfortunately for me, when you put the soap in water, the tomato smell just becomes stronger and more like a crisp tomato. If you like tomatoes, this is probably a great scent for you but for me, not so much.

AG adds: What a fun scent! I have this in perfume oil form. It opens with a light lemon-y top note which must certainly be the bergamot, but that fades almost immediately to make way for the tomato note. It truly does smell just like the inside of a tomato, so I'm very impressed. I'm getting just a touch of green herbal notes, especially tomato leaf, but I can't pick out what the other herbs are. There's a hint of sweetness tying everything together in a way that I really like - it takes it a small step away from the "I was just rubbing myself awkwardly on my garden plants" type of scent (which is totally valid, just not my style) and turns it into a realistic and evocative perfume.

Purchase Link



General Catalogue Scents

Black Currant Damson Frangipane

Almond frangipane with a crisp pastry crust, deep-filled with tart Blackcurrants, ripe Damsons, raw sugar & a flaked almond topping.
Kristin adds: I LOVE THIS HAIR RINSE SO MUCH. I love flaky pastries and the smell of bakeries so I was really excited about this scent. It didn't disappoint. I'll be honest and say that I have no idea what Damsons are but to me this smells like a super sweet batch of blackberry compote. Not quite like the fruit but like the jellied mixture that someone prepared to pop into a pastry. The pastry scent itself must have been buried but the impression is still there.

Purchase Link

Coconut Cream

I couldn't find scent notes of this.

I’m sorry, all. I took a photo of this, but I’m not reviewing it- for a couple of reasons. The first is that I’m worried it is a long sold out Limited Edition Soap. The other is I am absolutely certain that once I start using that soap, I am going to have to go buy a whole coconut cream pie, and I’m pretty sure I won’t fit in my pants after that.

Later: I ate the pie. I tried the soap. It smells exactly like coconut cream pie without the pie. It's a lovely creamy coconut scent, escaping the entrapment of the fake coconut tang while still smelling edible and yummy.

Kristin adds: I've been a little confused about the limited edition solid soaps being listed on the website. They're listed under "limited edition" but does that mean they're one batch only? Will I ever see it again? I found a few answers on the Future Primitive blog where the owner talks about making fun soaps to bring creativity back.
I made a pact with myself at the start of the year to start making some fun soaps, which would allow me to enjoy the process of running a soap business a little more. As time has flown by, and things have moved on, and the business has grown, I have found that parts of my job have become more 'Have To' rather than 'Want To', which sucks. So, I decided that in order to save me from myself I would start to use some different ingredients and some different fragrances in order to satisfy my creative needs. This soap is one of my play time results.  It's a blend of 3 different coconut FO's with lashings of coconut cream, shredded coconut and in the base, some ground coffee. Turns out it's been a very good seller so it may be that I make it again. The beauty part is that I don't have to if I don't want to!
Kristin: The description at the end sounded pretty much like the Coconut Cream bar to me. And the limited edition soaps sound like they're probably going to be one run only items (unless there's a huge popular demand). While I'm a little sad at this, since I try really hard not to pick up single run items-they can be such heartbreakers you know?-I really admire the sentiment behind wanting to keep making things for the fun of it instead of just for the business.

Elijah’s Comfort

Citrus top notes of Sweet Sicilian Orange, freshly-harvested Ylang Ylang blooms, Lemongrass sticks & Geranium leaves with a soft heart of old English Tea Roses.
It took a long time to get an idea on the scent of this. We started jokingly call it Memory Soap. I’d shower and use it to get an idea on it, get out of the shower and completely forget anything I had just smelled or thought to write about. In soap and scrub form, this is incredibly heavy on the lemongrass. Mr. J noticed when he tried it, starting with the scrub, an unidentifiable earthy scent under the lemongrass, which came out better in the soap. He has a beautiful nose for scent when he’s having an on day. It’s a lovely clean scent that I bet would become amazing in lotion or perfume.

Kristin adds: This is my all time favorite orange scent, replacing the longstanding Satyr from Haus of Gloi. Don't get me wrong, they're definitely different. Satyr is more of a darker orange and Elijah's Comfort is a bright, sweet, citrus but when I'm feeling orange-y, I've been picking up this one more than anything else. The lemongrass is definitely very strong in this but it blends really nicely with the sweet orange. Lemongrass usually gives me a PEZ sort of scent which can be artificial at times but I don't get as much of the sweet candy note in Elijah's Comfort. I started with a mini Bubbling Scrub and I'm eagerly waiting on a full size and a solid soap bar. The whipped soap was sadly out of stock during my purchase else I would have happily made a trio.

Purchase Link


Festival

A heady waft of Nag Champa incense dipped in thick, black Indonesian Patchouli with a passing puff of smoke from a travellers' house on wheels.
I spent a lot of my high school and college years shopping import shops with my mother. She could sniff out an import shop in a city while we were on vacation like a bloodhound. I’ve been in import shops in Atlanta, Savannah, New York City, Seattle, Cincinnati, Yellow Springs, Indianapolis, and I’m sure many another city. Festival smells like an import shop. It’s earthy, and beautiful, focusing more of the Nag Champa and Patchouli than the smoke. The smoke, if it’s there, deepens the scent without giving it a worrisome or unwanted tang that smoke can give things. Mr. J was so enamored with the Nag Champa, he ignored anything else in it. It is such a beautiful scent- I bought my replacement Conditioning Hair Rinse in Festival and passed the Ethereal Seas on to AG.

AG adds: Like Jessye, I have spent quite a bit of time in import shops and I agree that this scent wouldn't be the slightest bit out of place in one. I don't have anything to add to her excellent description, aside from the fact that it's almost got a chocolate-y character to it without smelling overtly of chocolate. It's deep and rich for sure.

Purchase Link

Inches Lane

Notes of Rosemary, Pine & Eucalyptus softened with Lemon and earthy Patchouli.
This is a Bathing Grains specific scent.

My only notes for this were, “A eucalyptus joy bath.” I loved this scent- it only lasted two baths, and I bought another bag with my second purchase. I love eucalyptus and rosemary. They’re such clarifying scents and really allow me to let go of stress and focus on what I’m doing. This is a beautiful way to do it without being overwhelming.

Purchase Link

Lagoon

A breath of fresh, clean air. A stumble across an island Lagoon. Lavender oil helps to clear a muggy head, whilst Bourbon Geranium and Indonesian Patchouli help to balance and relax the mind and soothe the skin.
This is a Limited Edition Soap.

I did not realize Limited Edition Soaps were a thing until after I did photos, or I probably would have left this off. I hate taunting people with things they can’t have or will have to search hard for it. I hate even more that I only have one bar of this and will not have anymore when this bar is gone. It smells exactly like a lagoon without being a water scent. The lavender is heady but not astringent. It’s clean with hints of mud. It’s really lovely, and I am going to not wax poetic about a soap I am completely uncertain will ever be available again.

Kristin adds: According to the Future Primitive Blog, Lagoon was previously a General Catalogue scent that had been knocked out of the running by other scents. This batch was made due to repeated requests but doesn't seem to have become a permanent addition.

Lemonade Lounger

Freshly-plucked Lemons nestled inside a wooden crate, a dainty cup of Vanilla & May Chang tea, and hints of warm summer soil carried softly on the breeze.
Kristin adds: I've been on a small-not-so-small lemon scent kick lately. I've amassed a bit of a collection of lemon scented bath products and have yet to find one that I dislike. (Sadly I can't say the same about the lemon flavored bakery goods.) Unlike many other companies, Future Primitive did not take the creamy lemon cake scent route. This is a strongly citrus-y lemon with none of that cream frosting business. It's still sweet though but sweet like lemonade where the flavor is the lemon but the sugar is added after. This was my impression from the whipped soap. I have a solid bar of this on the way.

Purchase Link

Rook and Raven

A dark, deeply mystifying blend of Sweet Sicilian Orange with a dry-down of aged Patchouli, Sandalwood & Blackened Vanilla.
I believe both Kristin and I ordered this with trepidation for completely different reasons. I, worrying about the vanilla, she, worrying about the patchouli and sandalwood. I couldn’t pass up on it, though. It’s named after a few death omens. Isn’t it?

Do you know how hard it is to find that out when Googling “Rook and Raven?” And do not even consider making it “The Rook and the Raven.” That makes it worse. You find a contemporary art museum and several links for a pub. So I pulled in Mr. J to help me research. Native Americans discuss that the hearing the rattling of a raven is like hearing a banshee- your death has been called. But the omen of the raven could go as far back as the Syrians. We could only find a third source, single sentence referencing it. It’s also Arthurian Legend- when Arthur died, he became a raven, and when Morgan Le Fey died, she became a rook. There’s also a legend that Arthur played chess with the Prince of the Ravens. Naturally, rooks and ravens became more intimately linked to death with the Victorians. They were obsessed with death and the raven became one of its decorations and with it, the rook.

And now that we have had a random non sequitur and history lesson, let us talk about this scent. This was a dark horse for me. I thought I would like it well enough. Weirdly, I bought the most products in this scent for myself, even though there were others that I was sure I would like. I fell in love. It smells nothing like what I expected. It’s this smooth concoction that is spicy but rounded.

When I first smelled it, my brained yelled out, “LUSH!” Okay, thanks Brain. But what scent? “I dunno.” Great. So I was that jerk that walks into a cosmetic company, hands them someone else’s product, and asks them what of theirs it smells like. They were incredibly helpful. (I think they like the money I spend there.) LUSH has a Christmas bath bomb named Cinders- it’s full of cinnamon and clove. It’s a spicy scent, meant to warm you up on a cold night. Rook and Raven smells verbatim (ver-sniff-im?) of Cinders, which is incredibly impressive, seeing as they came at this from different routes and found the same destination. Ah- I am slightly wrong. Apparently, they both have Orange in them. Which is interesting because what I can smell in both of them is the spiciness, which has no cross section. Regardless, I will be keeping Rook and Raven in stock, if for no other purpose than keeping it around as shampoo. I love this scent. Probably my favorite so far.

Kristin adds: My nose actually gives me an entirely different impression from Rook and Raven. I've been using this as a whipped soap and I actually grabbed it expecting it to be similar to the aforementioned, still beloved Satyr from Haus of Gloi. Orange and vanilla? Yeah, that's my jam. I was definitely hesitant due to the herbal notes but still figured it was probably up my alley.

Kristin: And well...it is but it isn't. I don't dislike it but...there's something odd about it to me. I don't get a spicy impression from the soap, just a far off type of scent. It smells like a blood orange scent that's very distant. Ack, this is hard to explain. It's not that the scent is light but that when I smell it, it seems like it's coming from far away. Bleh. Sorry, that wasn't useful at all. :(

Purchase Link


Sylph

Clouds of fluffed up Marshmallows infused with a glug of classic Lavender oil.
Glug. I love that word- glug. AG and Kristin ordered items in this. I smelled them dry and thought, “Oh my God. I love this.” So when I made a second order, I ordered this in a scrub and a whipped soap. Nope. I tried it once and passed them off to AG, so I’ll leave the reviewing of this to them.

Kristin adds: I know that we haven't specifically reviewed it yet but to me, Sylph smells like Haus of Gloi's Lavender Sugar smashed together with a marshmallow. Unfortunately, that's not a useful comparison unless you've tried Lavender Sugar. I have Sylph in Bubbling Sugar Buff form and as I was using it, I could only think to myself, "Man I bet AG will LOVE this." I may have overestimated her fondness for marshmallows but I know that the sweet Lavender thing is one that she loves.

AG adds: Kristin's instincts weren't too far off! One of my first purchases from Haus of Gloi was a scrub in Lavender Sugar, and it helped me fall in love with the brand. I'm partial to lavender in pretty much any form, including straight off the bush. Sylph smells like candied lavender to me. Every time I smell it, I picture a stick of vividly purple rock candy that tastes strongly of lavender. I'm sure the marshmallow is in there helping round out this impression, but I honestly don't smell it outright.

Purchase Link

White Patchouli

Indonesian Patchouli, heady night Jasmine, Peony petal, White sandalwood, Incense trails and intense woods. 
This is a Limited Edition Perfume. 

As of the writing of this, this is still in stock. I’ve tried several indie perfumes thanks mostly to AG, who passes off to me things that I like from her destash bag. A few I have discovered on my own. Most of the perfumes I have tried, I am unable to smell on me. It’s really disappointing because I love being able to smell myself without having to shove my wrist up my nose. One of the only perfumes I have found pervasive enough is Haus of Gloi’s Rose City. I can smell it on me without trying. And I love that. I love being able to smell my perfume. I can smell White Patchouli as well as Rose City. The first time I tried it, I only put it on my wrists, but I could smell it with my wrists in my lap. It’s a lovely scent, heavy on the peony, but feminine and soft. I am quite fond of it. The florals stand out the most to me with the woods giving it depth and lasting time.

Purchase Link

White Witch

Deepest tones of Black Indonesian Patchouli balanced with Bourbon Geranium.
I have a sample soap of this, but I will leave the reviewing of it to AG and Kristin. It smelled like Veet to me. You know, the stuff you shave your legs with that you use without water?

Kristin adds: This is listed on the website as Future Primitive's top selling soap. Jessye was actually surprised when I ordered it since, as she put it, I "usually avoid the hippie scents." And she has a point there but I was still curious as to what made this soap stand out above all others. I still have no idea how to describe this bar. I've smacked myself in the nose with it several times trying to get a better sniff. At least in solid soap form, White Witch is pretty light smelling. I get a tiny bit of geranium but surprisingly little of the patchouli. It's just enough patchouli to maybe think it might be there but not nearly as strong as the scent usually is.

Kristin: If I had to pin it down though, I'd say that it just smells clean. A very lightly floral soap scent.

AG adds: I've got this in perfume oil, and it looks like I had a very different experience from Kristin! I definitely get a relatively tame patchouli, but since I'm not familiar with the scent of geranium, my impression is that the patchouli is mixed with a light menthol - it chills my sinuses a little when I sniff my wrist. The internet is telling me that geranium can sometimes smell green, citrus-y, or a little peppery, so I'm guessing that's what I'm smelling here. Whatever it is, it's an accent to the more dominant patchouli note.

Purchase Link

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I’m sorry for the incredible length of this review, but I hope you have enjoyed our first foray into Future Primitive! Make sure to like us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter, follow us on Pinterest, and/or follow us on BlogLovin to get all of our updates!

Friday, May 22, 2015

Tutorial: The Indie Know Take on Pressing Loose Eyeshadows



How to Press Loose Shadows


Hello! I feel like there are a million and one tutorials out there about pressing loose eyeshadows, and I am by no means an expert on this, but I thought I'd walk you through how I do it just in case it's helpful to see the million-and-second tutorial about it.

I hate using loose eyeshadow and other powder products. I don't think my fellow bloggers mind it quite as much as I do, but it just annoys me so much. Sifter jars are OK, but I hate the dance of having to shake-shake-shake the loose powder into the lid and then dab up what never seems like enough powder with my brush, rinse, repeat.

Sample baggies are OK too, but I feel like I always get way too much powder on my brush, or it's unevenly distributed, and then I get spots of color on my eye or fallout under it. Jars without a sifter are the worst of both worlds, with the added bonus terror of my hand possibly shaking or bumping something and spilling the loose eyeshadow everywhere. So when I have a loose eyeshadow in something that's not a sifter jar, my top priority if I want to actually use it day-to-day is to press it into a pan.

I learned how to do this primarily from Drivel About Frivol and Portrait of Mai's excellent tutorials on the subject. I can guarantee you they're going to be better tutorials than this one, but sometimes seeing something presented by a different person can be helpful!

Materials list! 


Here is what I, personally, use for pressing:
  • 26 mm round tin pans from TKB Trading. I use these because they are magnetic. They can rust, so you can use aluminum pans instead of you're concerned about that. I am not.
  • A pressing tile/tamping tool from TKB trading that looks like a doorknob with a metal disc at the end. They seem to have discontinued it in favor of these; you could jerry-rig your own handle with some superglue and a doorknob, I guess, or just use the handle-less version.
  • TKB Trading's Pressing Medium 
  • TKB Trading's Pressing Ribbon
  • Paper towels
  • Toothpicks
  • 91% rubbing alcohol
  • Pipette, eyedropper, or even a coffee stirrer or straw, for dripping the alcohol
  • Sticky paper labels (either the round ones or rectangular ones cut into small squares)
  • Pen
  • Loose eyeshadow. You should probably have a few different colors ready to go and combine into pans if needed, and be conscious of the amounts--you might need 4 different sample baggies to fill up a single pan, or a single mini jar might fill one single pan. Sometimes a mini will mix down to a much smaller volume than you'd expect, and you'll need to combine 2 in a single pan.
  • A mixing pot, like a clean empty Sephora sample container, if the eyeshadow is not already in a little jar

Steps!


You know how when Julia Child first came on TV, she was a revelation because she cooked the way normal people would cook--drop something on the floor? "Oops! We'll just pick that back up and wash it off and continue!" I aim to be the Julia Child of eyeshadow pressing. You will see the various messy shortcuts and mistakes I take in the tutorial below--I am not super hygienic, but I have not yet gotten moldy eyeshadows/eye infections/etc. from this process.

1. Prep your workstation. In this case, my workstation is a desk and my prep consists of laying down a paper towel so I don't have to deal with cleaning eyeshadow spillage off the desk later.

2. Prep your tools. Get everything out. Wash your hands. Wipe down your pans and toothpicks with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Real talk: I don't always sanitize everything, on the assumption that I am about to blitz the inside of the pan and the tip of the toothpick with a rubbing alcohol mixture anyway so I'm not sure the earlier layer of alcohol really does all that much? I also frequently forget to wash my hands, but I don't put my hands directly into the eyeshadow so it probably is not a huge deal either.

Sanitizing my pans
3. Get your eyeshadow ready. You can tip your sample eyeshadow from a baggie into a little sample jar, or pry out the sifter, or if you're working with a mini jar without a sifter, just work directly in the jar. For Fyrinnae minis, I just work directly in the mini jar. In this tutorial, I dumped out about half of a Hello Waffle halfling (Catticus Finch) into a sample jar to work with, because I'd never pressed HW shadows before and it looked like a large volume of shadow. It turns out that one halfling will fill up a 26 mm eyeshadow pan just fine so I could have worked directly in the HW jar as well.

Eyeshadow dumped into a separate jar for mixing
4. Drip in the pressing medium and mix it with a toothpick. Go easy on this stuff! Adding too little is fixable (just grind up the underpressed eyeshadow, add more medium and alcohol, repress, repeat) but adding too much is not, and will make your eyeshadow hard and unpigmented. When I first tried this, I added 2 drops of medium and 2 drops of glycerin to each mini jar and most of my shadows came out harder than I would have liked. Now I just add 2 drops of medium and it seems fine. I add just 1 drop if it's a smaller amount like a sample baggie. For the newer semi-loose Fyrinnae shadows that already have some binder added, I would use only 1 drop of binder.

A couple of drops of pressing medium added
Pressing medium mixed into shadow
5. Drip in the alcohol and mix it with the same toothpick. I add probably about 10 drops of alcohol, ideally just enough to make it turn into a sort of mousse-like texture. More Julia Child-style corner-cutting real talk: most tutorials have you mixing this like scones, where you cut together the pressing medium and pigment first and then add the alcohol, but I'm not really convinced this is necessary. I pressed a few of my eyeshadows this batch by just dumping in the alcohol and the pressing medium at once and stirring everything together, and it doesn't seem to have done anything bad. 

Anyway, you can see in my photos that I foolishly said to myself "I don't need to use a pipette!" I don't know why, because my pipettes were literally within arm's reach. But bottom line, I dumped a ton of rubbing alcohol in with my unsteady hand and now this is far soupier than what I meant to have happen. 

There's no real harm in adding too much alcohol, though, because it will all evaporate off eventually--it just makes it hard to combine colors in a pan, and you have to wait longer before pressing. Consider this your first "Don't Do What Donny Don't Does" moment of this tutorial.

Add rubbing alcohol and mix
6. Pour the mixture into your 26 mm tin pan. You should be able to see at this point if it will cover the whole bottom of the pan comfortably or if you'll need to combine it with another color or multiple colors. 

Looks pretty, but it has too much alcohol
If you do need to combine it with other colors, repeat steps 3-5 and dump the other color in here, then smooth the colors out with a toothpick till each one covers an equal amount of pan and there aren't any holes in the coverage. When in doubt, it's better to choose fewer colors and a shallower pan than a deeper pan with more colors in it, unless you use an eyeshadow brush for ants, because it will be impossible to pick up color from a sliver of pan the size of a rice grain. 

If you have a firmer-textured mixture, you can easily spread it across only part of the pan so it can be combined with other colors 
As for combining colors, you can go the duo method where you combine two colors that would make a cohesive single eye look, or you can do what I do, which is to combine fairly similar colors, so that any contamination of powder getting from one side onto the other isn't a big deal. If I'm doing a pale pastel pink eye look, I don't want random speckles of black eyeshadow getting in it from the other half of my pan. Or you can do the other thing I do, which is to combine shadows at random depending on what you have that needs to be pressed. 

In the case of the Catticus Finch I've been working on in my tutorial here, the next "Don't Do What Donny Don't Does" moment is that I realized that a single halfling would in fact fit into a 26 mm pan, so I mixed up the rest of the jar and poured it on top. This is probably too far much pressing medium for the amount of eyeshadow, but it actually still swatches OK, so I don't think I completely ruined it.

7. Press! Or.. wait and press, if you have a soupy over-alcohol'd mess of eyeshadow like my example here. Once enough alcohol has evaporated that you have something that's closer to Play-Doh or mousse in texture, you're good to go.

I usually cut a small piece of pressing ribbon just bigger than the pan (this piece in the photo is larger than average), stick it onto my eyeshadow pan, top it with a little piece of folded up paper towel to soak up excess alcohol, then put the tamping tool on top and press it down firmly. Colored alcohol will ooze up (I feel like I'm describing Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street) and get soaked up by the paper towel. Peel up all the layers and check the top surface. It should have nice hatch-marks on top. If it's too wet, you'll have little gloopy marks where the wet shadow stuck to the ribbon, and you may need to wait and press again. Or just live with it, since the hatchmarks will go away after a few uses anyway.

A length of pressing ribbon that I've cut to press a pan with two colors combined
Pressing the eyeshadow with the pressing tool
The finished product after peeling off the pressing ribbon
8. Wait. Let all the alcohol evaporate. Be patient. Once the shadow is dry, you should have a nice pan that's suddenly WAY easier to deal with than the sample baggie or loose eyeshadow jar! Now you can just swipe your brush across the surface and get a thin, even layer of eyeshadow on it without fear of spilling eyeshadow everywhere.

The finished (wet) pans of eyeshadow from this pressing session
9. Label your eyeshadows. I stick a handwritten sticker on the back of each one, or sometimes (I've done this with a number of my older Fyrinnae shadows) I peel off, trim and stick the original sticker from the jar onto the back of the pan.

10.  Put together a palette! I have a ton of different options--a Book of Shadows palette (we reviewed them here), an Altoids tin lined with magnetic tape from the craft store (this is my favorite one), one of these TKB palettes (very pleasing that they fit perfectly into the little holes, but it's hard to pry them up to see the color names), a couple of these Coastal Scents palettes. My latest acquisition is one of these magnetic palettes from Jo-Ann that I got for $4 after seeing Nouveau Cheap's tip off about them. I have far too many, because I also went through an ill-considered depotting phase that made me use some of my mainstream eyeshadows LESS than before, and because I love Rouge Bunny Rouge shadows but they are expensive as hell so I get refill pans for any colors whenever that's possible. I plan to someday go through my DIY palettes and get rid of the pans with bad pigmentation or the ones I just don't use. Someday... 

Here are the results of this pressing session, shown in the larger palette below! Shadows are from Fyrinnae, Hello Waffle, and Glamour Doll Eyes--let me know if you have any questions about any of them. (Upon preliminary swatching, nothing seems to have been ruined in the pressing process.) On top is my favorite little Altoids palette with my RBR shadows in it.

Freestyle magnetic palettes
And here, for inspiration or as a cautionary tale about the addictive nature of indie shadows, are my Book of Shadows and Coastal Scents palettes--the Book of Shadows palette is mostly full of depotted Wet 'n' Wild shadows, while the Coastal Scents palette is a mixture of Fyrinnae, Shiro, Meow, and a couple of other random things thrown in there. I haven't tried pressing any mattes yet, out of a fear of ruining them, but I'd use my Detrivore mattes way more if they were in pans, so maybe that should be my next project.

More freestyle palettes
I hope that was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions I can answer!