Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Perfume Review: Providence Perfume Company Osmanthus Oolong






I've written before about my deep and abiding love for tea perfumes. One of the floral notes I enjoy most in perfumes is osmanthus, or tea olive, a scent that is often described as "apricots and suede"--Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan is one of my favorites, though I only wear it sparingly due to the price (and my short attention span when it comes to fragrances).

The flower is often combined with green or oolong tea, both in real life and in perfume.

I recently noticed the description of Providence Perfume Company's Osmanthus Oolong and the notes seemed tailor-made for me--three different kinds of tea! smoke! leather! osmanthus! citrus!--so I requested and received a free sample with a Beautyhabit purchase and tested it out with high hopes.

Providence Perfume Co. is an all-natural perfumer based in Providence, RI, and owner Charna Ethier, the child of "devout hippies," was named 2012 Natural Perfumer of the Year by CaFleureBon. Their scent Moss Gown was also nominated for a 2013 FiFi (Fragrance Foundation) award in the indie perfumes category. (As an aside, I'm honestly not entirely sure of which perfume companies are categorized as "niche" and which are "indie," but I decided to write about this one here anyway!)

Price: $30 for a 7.5 mL travel atomizer or $125 for a 1-ounce atomizer; eau de parfum concentration.
Samples: Available as part of a coffret of 10 EDP deluxe sample sprays for $68 or via their Etsy site as a single 1.5 mL spray sample for $11. As I mentioned, I received my sample from Beautyhabit, who carry many niche/indie fragrances and will attempt to fulfill requests for specific samples with orders.
Shipping: $3 for a sample within the US; shipping on full bottles appears to be $9 for USPS Priority Shipping within the US, with free shipping on orders of $150 or above. Contact the company for rates for shipping elsewhere in the world.
Description from the website: "Green, red and black teas blended with sparkling citrus scented aglaia blossoms, and golden Japanese osmanthus flower with its heady peach jasmine aroma. Tart and fruity middle notes give way to a sueded apricot base with a touch of leather. Lauded for its stunning aroma and sillage, Osmanthus Oolong is a must-try for tea lovers."
My thoughts:
This perfume has a fruity and strangely soapy-medicinal-powdery opening, an "old lady" smell I find oddly similar to Guerlain's classic Shalimar and that I got from the black musk in BPAL's Playful Wooden Mallets as well. Not a promising beginning at all. (I admit I'm not that fond of Shalimar--heresy!) This powderiness is overlaid with boozy overripe peach.

Thankfully, as it dries, a very smoky, leathery black tea note starts snaking its way up. It bridges the way between dusting powder and black birch tar smokiness, and is finally lightened by a smear of the floral apricot sweetness of osmanthus blossom.

The black tea seems more smoky Lapsang Souchong than oolong to me. I don't get green tea from this, and the red tea and aglaia may have blended into the fruitiness of the osmanthus in my mind.

I enjoy this drydown, mellowed-out and comfortably incense-smoky, far more than the wet stage, but it's fairly bitter and still retains a bit of that unpleasant (to my nose) dressing-room powdery aspect; something oddly biological, but not in a sexy way. Your mileage may vary, of course, since the aforementioned other scents it reminds me of are cult classics and much beloved.

It smells better to me when worn lightly, as the osmanthus-floral aspect of the scent seems to come out a bit more this way. I dabbed it lightly on one wrist, heavily on the other, and Wrist A smells noticeably and qualitatively better--it's not that Wrist B is overpoweringly strong, I still need to bring it up to my face to smell it, but the smoke-and-booze aspects of it are stronger, while the other wrist smells more like a pleasant, soft fruity floral.

The scent continues to soften and sweeten as it wears on, so if you're not happy with how it smells at first, give it an hour or two. After a while, it ends up smelling a bit like snuffed-out, slightly fruity beeswax candles--smooth waxy base, smoke, apricots. I like it more and more the longer it's been on my skin; conversely, I'd never wear this in a scent locket or on my hair, where it might sit forever in the earlier stages of the perfume.

So, final verdict: while the list of notes seemed perfect, this just didn't grab me. I walked into testing this half-expecting a new holy grail tea perfume, but for better or for worse, my quest continues. This is nice enough, and I think I'll hold onto and use the sample, but ultimately, it's not something I feel compelled to obtain more of. I thought it was interesting enough that I will probably check out some more of Providence's perfumes in the future: Cocoa Tuberose sounds interesting and delicious, as does the "green, creamy floral" of Moss Gown.

Happy New Year, readers, and I hope 2014 brings you many wonderful and wonderful-smelling things!

Monday, December 30, 2013

Swatch Post! Kiss My Sass Cosmetics : Drama Queen, Final Exams, Late Night Lattes, and Naughty Girl!

Purchased

1/23/2014 Note: Kiss My Sass Cosmetics has recently re-named their shop to All That Sass. Purchase links have been updated.


From the website: a sheer peachy nude with a heavy golden sheen

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, carmine, nylon 12, magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate, silicon dioxide, boron nitride

Safe for: eyes, lips, face & nails
Vegan: no (contains carmine)

Personal Comments: A cream colored eyeshadow with gold shimmer added. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

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From the website: dark smoldering gray with slight violet undertones

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, iron oxides, ultramarines, manganese violet, titanium dioxide, silicon dioxide, boron nitride, magnesium myristate

Safe for: eyes, face & nails (NOT LIPS)
Vegan: yes

Personal Comments: From the College Life collection. A matte dark brown color with hints of shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: caramel/tan with orange to blue to purple color shifting sparkles

Eye Shadow Ingredients: synthetic fluorophylogopite, silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, manganese violet, iron oxide, boron nitride, magnesium myristate

Safe for: eyes, lips, face & nails
Vegan: yes

Personal Comments: From the College Life collection. A matte beige/tan color with minimal silver shimmer added. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

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From the website:  blue with pink/magenta sparkles

Eye Shadow Ingredients: ultramarines, mica, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, calcium aluminum borosilicate, silicon dioxide, blue #1, zinc oxide, nylon 12, magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate, boron nitride

Safe for: eyes, face & nails (NOT LIP SAFE)
Vegan: yes

Personal Comments: "Naughty Dog" has been renamed to "Naughty Girl." A matte blue base with added pink shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Friday, December 27, 2013

Swatch Post! Dark Heart Designs : Curse, Deal, Ever After, and Fantasy!

From the website: A lavender-grey shadow with purple sheen and sparkle. 

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica (77019 12001-26-2), Titanium Dioxide (77891 13463-67-7), Iron Oxide (774499 1309-38-2), Tin Oxide (778161 18282-10-5), Manganese Violet (77742 10101-66-3), Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Carnauba Wax 8015-86-9), Boron Nitride (10043-11-5), Magnesium Myristrate (4086-70-8), Magnesium Stearate (557-04-0) Zinc Oxide (77497 1314-13-2), Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (65997-17-3), Silica (7631-86-9)

Safe for: Lips, Eyes, Face, Nails

Vegan!

Personal Comments: From the Once Upon A Time collection. Curse is lavender and leaning towards pink in the direct light. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A bronze-brown shadow with a green and gold sheen and sparkle.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica (77019 12001-26-2), Titanium Dioxide (77891 13463-67-7), Iron Oxide (774499 1309-38-2), Tin Oxide (778161 18282-10-5), Blue 1 Lake (42090 68921-42-6), Hydrogenated Polybutene (68931-10-0), Palmitic Acid (57-10-3), Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Carnauba Wax 8015-86-9), Boron Nitride (10043-11-5), Magnesium Myristrate (4086-70-8), Magnesium Stearate (557-04-0) Zinc Oxide (77497 1314-13-2), Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (65997-17-3), Silica (7631-86-9).

Safe for: Lips, Eyes, Face, Nails

Personal Comments: From the Once Upon A Time collection. Deal is a neutral, almost taupe-y but not quite, brown. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A rusty tangerine orange shadow with orange sparkle. 

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica (77019 12001-26-2), Titanium Dioxide (77891 13463-67-7), Iron Oxide (774499 1309-38-2), Tin Oxide (778161 18282-10-5), Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Carnauba Wax 8015-86-9), Boron Nitride (10043-11-5), Magnesium Myristrate (4086-70-8), Magnesium Stearate (557-04-0) Zinc Oxide (77497 1314-13-2), Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (65997-17-3), Silica (7631-86-9).

Safe for: Lips, Eyes, Face, Nails

Vegan!

Personal Comments: From the Once Upon A Time collection. Though Ever After is listed as a duochrome, I didn't see any duochrome in it. It's a bright orange eyeshadow with a gold shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A light mauve shadow with green sheen and aqua sparkle. 

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica (77019 12001-26-2), Titanium Dioxide (77891 13463-67-7), Iron Oxide (774499 1309-38-2), Tin Oxide (778161 18282-10-5), Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Carnauba Wax 8015-86-9), Boron Nitride (10043-11-5), Magnesium Myristrate (4086-70-8), Magnesium Stearate (557-04-0) Zinc Oxide (77497 1314-13-2), Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (65997-17-3), Silica (7631-86-9).

Safe for: Lips, Eyes, Face, Nails

Vegan! 

Personal Comments: From the Once Upon A Time collection. Another shadow that's listed as a duochrome. Fantasy is a lavender shade with pretty heavy purple notes. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Thursday, December 26, 2013

Company Overview: Furless


Furless is an Australian brush and cosmetics company, and as their name suggests, all of their brushes are synthetic and vegan. I first heard about them after seeing reviews from Australian beauty YouTubers Amy Sass and Goo Roo Beauty. Amy Sass is a vegan makeup artist who only uses cruelty free cosmetics, and Goo Roo Beauty (Jodi) is a fellow Perth resident who does fantastically thorough reviews and looks using mostly products that are available in Australia, I highly recommend all Australian beauty addicts to check them out! Furless is most known for their line of cruelty-free synthetic brushes, but they also have a line of vegan colour cosmetics (which I have yet to try). Most of the brushes I own from Furless I purchased on sale and are now discontinued, so I'll be speaking more generally on my experience with the quality overall rather than specifics of brushes that are no longer able to be purchased.



Packaging: 
I do not have any photos of the original packaging, apologies for that. I have only ordered individual brushes from Furless, and they have all come individually wrapped in long plastic sleeves (similar to MAC brushes) and some of them have also had sturdier, thicker plastic sleeves that cover just the brush hairs to keep them in shape. My brushes have all been mailed in bubble-wrap padded envelopes.

Selection: 
Furless offers Single Brushes in a variety of shapes and colours, Brush Sets, Brush Rolls and Cases, and Makeup.

Top-Bottom: Purple Angled Liner, Bronze Blending BrushPurple Lip Brush, Purple Angled Blush Brush 
Samples: 
If I remember correctly, Furless used to offer samples of their powder cosmetics. However I can no longer find any powder cosmetics on their site, I'm not sure if they've been discontinued or are being reformulated. I have received a freebie brush with my orders, both have been full-sized eye brushes.

Quality:
Considering the price, I've been very impressed with the quality of the brushes. They haven't been 100% perfect though - the handle of my Punk Pink Powder Brush separated from the ferrule, but that was an easy fix with super glue. For what it's worth, I paid $3.98AUD for the Punk Pink Powder Brush (I don't know how much it originally cost, but the Perfectly Pink Powder Brush costs $10AUD), and the exact same thing happened to my Smashbox Powder Brush which was originally $48USD that I picked up on sale for $24USD (it also shed quite a bit). Another thing I've noticed with two of my Furless brushes is that they have one 'hair' that is longer than the rest, this hasn't affected the way the brush performs since it's a single 'hair,' but it is a noticeable discrepancy. Other than that I've found that all of my Furless brushes apply both powder and cream/liquid products well due to their synthetic bristles, have not shed even after several cleanings, are soft, and dry quickly.

The Punk Pink line appears to be discontinued - for similar brushes, top-bottom: Must-Have Pro Pencil Brush, Perfectly Pink Angled Contour Brush, Perfectly Pink Stippling Brush, Perfectly Pink Powder Brush   

Cost:
Aside from the brushes being cruelty-free, the most appealing factor for me is Furless' prices! As I mentioned earlier, I picked many of the brushes up on sale, but they're hardly expensive to begin with. In terms of single brushes, the Fun and Funky brushes are either $9AUD (smaller eye brushes) or $10AUD (larger face brushes), the Bambo line ranges from $3.50AUD to $12.95AUD, and the Must Have Pro line ranges $11.95AUD to $14.95AUD. Brush sets start at $24.95AUD and go up to $149.95AUD for the Must Have Professional Makeup Brush set.

Keep an eye out on their social media pages for sales and free shipping offers.

Australian makeup addicts take note - the Real Techniques brushes cost more than double the US RRP in Australia (the Stippling Brush is $22.99AUD vs $9.99USD and the Core Collection is $44.99AUD vs $17.99USD). Eco Tools brushes are also marked up (the Finishing Kabuki Brush is $19.99AUD vs $7.99USD and the Touch Up Set is $19.99AUD vs $9.99USD).

Customer Service:
I have not had to contact customer service, however they do appear to answer all inquiries on their Facebook page and are active on Twitter.

TAT:
On their Shipping/Postage page, Furless states that orders are usually shipped the same day they are ordered. Both of my orders were placed in the evening/at night so they were shipped the next day. I can't remember how long it took to reach me, but I think it was around a week.

The Bamboo brushes I own also appear to be discontinued - for similar brushes, top-bottom: Precision/Liner Brushes, Eyeshadow Brushes, Foundation/Concealer brushes   

Shipping:
Another bonus for Australians is the shipping cost - there is a flat rate fee of $5AUD usingAustralia Post Standard to anywhere in Australia, and $12AUD using Australia Post Express for next-day delivery.

International (outside of Australia) shipping is determined by weight, so I created a cart with the address set to Boston, containing the Must Have Professional Makeup Brush set (their largest set), and since it's over 500 grams, it came out to $28.90AUD.

Furless state that orders within Australia generally take 1-3 days to arrive, and international orders can take 2-4 weeks but generally arrive in 10-12 business days.

Personal Thoughts:
I'm really pleased to have found a budget, cruelty-free brush brand that is based in Australia. I like all of the brushes I own from them, and I hope that in the future they continue to expand their range and make more specialised brushes (not that I need more brushes, but I'm always on the lookout for extra foundation and eyeliner brushes because I hate cleaning brushes and I hoard multiples). Two Furless brushes have replaced old brushes in my daily makeup routine - a horrible Cosmetica by Manicare Powder Brush (Australian drugstore brand) that left little black hairs on my face after every use (even after several washings) has been replaced by the Punk Pink Powder brush, and a MAC 168 Large Angled Contour brush that I've had for a few years but has recently started to shed has been replaced by the Purple Angled Brush Blush.

The only items that appear to be permanent in their range are the Must Have line, most of the items I currently see in their shop are new to me and many of the items that were previously for sale are not available for purchase anymore. While I do like the brushes I own, I'm not desperately attached to any of them so it doesn't bother me that some brushes I purchased are now discontinued, but I could see how it would be disappointing to want to purchase a backup of a brush only to find it is no longer for sale. If anything from Furless sounds interesting to you, I'd definitely recommend trying them out.

Have you tried any brushes from Furless? What do you think?

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Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Seasons Greetings!



Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone!

From everyone here at Indie Know, we hope you're having a fantastic season! <3

Monday, December 23, 2013

Swatch Post! Chinovi Cosmetics's Oh My Gods! Part Two of Two

Purchased

Part Two of Two! Check here for the Collection Overview and Part One!

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From the website: a sheer black base with lots of red and gold sparkles.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide, calcium aluminum borosilicate, silica, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax 

Personal Comments: A dark black eyeshadow with a fiery red shimmer for the god of the underworld. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: a muddy silver with red and gold shifts.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide, silica, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax 

Personal Comments: The god of the forge! Haephaestus is a dark, steel-toned silver with glowing red shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: a satiny cream with gold shifts.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax 

Personal Comments: A bridal white is very fitting for Hera, the goddess of marriage. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: a soft buttery gold.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax

Personal Comments: Hermes is the messenger god. The shadow is a pale yellow with a satin finish. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: a sea blue with silver and blue sparkles.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide, calcium aluminum borosilicate, silica, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax 

Personal Comments: The god of the sea! Poseidon is a dark blue with multicolored shimmer that looks like reflecting water. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: a medium silver with lots of gold and silver sparkles.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin oxide, calcium aluminum borosilicate, silica, magnesium stearate, carnauba wax

Personal Comments: Finally, Zeus. The king of the gods and the god of the sky. Zeus is a metallic silver. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Saturday, December 21, 2013

Collection Spotlight! Chinovi Cosmetics's Oh My Gods! Part One of Two

Purchased

Ah the legends of Ancient Greece. I'll admit to having a slight obsessions with the myths when I was younger. There are thousands of stories and though they're similar to medieval fables, they seemed to have less of an inclination to beat the reader over the head with what was right and wrong. Heroes and honor, gods and magic, what's there not to love?

And man, Chinovi really knocked it out of the park with this collection. There are 12 shadows in this set and each is inspired by one of the 12 Olympians.



Knowing the theme behind this collection, I could probably name every shadow correctly without labels. The colors and finishes are gorgeous and really make me think of the gods that they're named after. And of course, every shadow is consistent with Chinovi's quality standards. They feel really great.

Individual swatches will be split into two posts! Set one after the jump!

Purchase Link

Friday, December 20, 2013

Swatch Post! Madd Style Cosmetics : Double Tap, Graveyard Garden, Nightmare, and Tea Virus!

From the website: DOUBLE TAP is a chocolatey brown with a color-shifting finish that changes from copper, to gold, to silver.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face. 

Personal Comments: Previously a part of MSC's Alice in Wonderland Collection but now part of the permanent collection. Double Tap is a creamy red-based brown with a satin finish and hints of a gold shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: GRAVEYARD GARDEN is a shiny deep blue-based purple with multicolored shimmer. 

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face. 

Personal Comments: Previously a part of MSC's Alice in Wonderland Collection but now part of the permanent collection. Graveyard Garden is a medium purple with a blue base and a shimmery finish. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: NIGHTMARE is a metallic blue steel shade

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face. 

Personal Comments: Previously a part of MSC's Alice in Wonderland Collection but now part of the permanent collection. A dark blue with a silvery glow. Nightmare looks grey in certain lights. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: TEA VIRUS is a wearable pumpkin orange with a pearl finish.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Tin Oxide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face. 

Personal Comments: Previously a part of MSC's Alice in Wonderland Collection but now part of the permanent collection. Bright orange with gold shimmer. Tea Virus is almost matte but not quite. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Thursday, December 19, 2013

Company Overview: Arcana Soaps

A few Arcana perfumes, a bar of soap, and some completely unrelated but pretty jewelry
Purchased

Arcana Soaps is a producer of lovely-smelling soaps, bath and beauty products, and perfume oils rich with literary allusions (Great Expectations, The Song of Songs, Lord Byron, Tess of the d'Urbervilles... the list goes on). They're a little unusual among the indies I've purchased from in that they don't do any direct sales from a website or Etsy, only via third party retailers. You can also contact them by email to purchase directly if you already know what you want, though I've never tried this myself. They do have contact with customers via Twitter and a Livejournal community, Arcana Soaps Love (look for the "Julia Says" tag) which also serves as a forum for reviews, second-hand sales, and decant circles.

I've purchased their goods via the now-defunct Scent Addict and The Soap Box Company, and also browsed their wares in person at a local soap shop (though I didn't end up wanting the one soap that was stocked locally). Note that the links to specific items in the rest of this review will be chosen randomly from different retailers--I have no affiliation with any of them and just wanted to spread the linkage around.

Packaging: 
The packaging is simple, aesthetically cohesive, and attractive. All the products I've seen feature a vintage, old-books feel, with black and white line art printed on matte, unbleached, yellowish paper labels. The perfume oils come in a fairly standard amber glass bottle (more on this later) while the soaps come in surprisingly small and chunky hand-cut blocks with a paper sleeve. I can't speak to the overall packaging for shipment, of course, due to their being sold and shipped only by third parties.

The swirly top of a bar of Zingiber soap
Selection: 
Arcana offers cold process soaps, lotions/body creamsfacial masks, sugar scrubs, solid lip gloss in a tin, and perfume oils. The widest variety is in their soaps and perfume oils; the selection of the others seems to be quite limited and sometimes limited edition. There is a subsection of soaps, the single-note St. John's Apothecary soaps--I'm not sure if these vary in formula or if they are distinct only in being scented with a single note rather than a blended scent.

Like most indies, they do limited edition seasonal or themed releases, although the "limited edition" scents tend to be available indefinitely afterwards from the various retailers, so you can generally find them until they sell out--no forced scarcity from a scent only being available for six hours, while the planets are in conjunction, or anything like that. I've particularly enjoyed their tropical summertime Cocos Nucifera collection and would recommend checking that out, especially Bloom, a rich, tropical-fruity vanilla perfume, and Zingiber, a soap that smells like strong, spicy ginger ale.

You'll have to click around to the various online retailers to see the variety of products available from each. In the "Cost" section, I've listed the ones that seem to have the widest selection.

Samples: 
Samples of perfume oils, presumably in the standard 1 mL glass vials, are available from The Soap Box Company for $3.25. In addition, for their full bottles, Arcana offers both the standard-sized 5 mL bottles and a smaller, cheaper 3.7 mL bottle. Not all the retailers carry both sizes, unfortunately--Pretty Indulgent does, and I believe the Soap Box Company did at some point but doesn't anymore.

You can buy 7-gram sample packets of the face masks from The Soap Box Company for $3 each; each one is good for 3 or 4 uses. I am intrigued by the packaging. I've never seen these in person, but online, they look like those single-serving mayo packets you get with deli sandwiches.

3.7 mL bottle next to the standard 5 mL bottle

Quality:
I've been impressed with the quality of all the perfumes I've tried from Arcana--they tend to have a strong throw, good lasting power, and distinct personalities, unlike perfumes I sometimes try only to find that multiple scents all wind up in a similar-smelling vague miasma. Not all the scents I've tried have agreed with me, but I think the "hit rate" is mostly pretty high for me with this brand.

I've found the soaps hit or miss. Some of them, like Zingiber, smell wonderful, while others I've tried, like Murder Ballad Blues or Tropica, have smelled like almost nothing and felt sort of oddly waxy. I would take a gamble on ordering one online if a scent sounded really great, but I don't order Arcana soaps with the feeling that they'll always be amazing. I'm not too picky with bar soaps when it comes to their other qualities, so I can't speak to whether they may irritate sensitive skin or cause body acne. They're always perfectly acceptable for washing my body with, but just feel like a waste of money if I can't even smell the fancy scent in my fancy scented soap when I'm taking a shower.

I haven't tried any of their other products, like the lotions or masks.

Cost:
Not all the companies listed under the retailers on their website seem to still carry their products--the online retailers that do seem to currently carry them, and some comparisons of their non-standardized prices, are:
  • Buy Olympia (a small selection of soaps for $7 a bar)
  • Dress Like a Pirate (a small selection of perfume oils for $11.50 or soaps for $7.50)
  • Magical Omaha (a few soaps for $6.99, perfume oils for $13.99)
  • Pretty Indulgent (based in Canada; they have an exclusive scent called "Pretty Lollies," available only from them, as body cream, perfume, or sugar scrub--"Pomegranate, sparkling citron, pearl musk, pink musk, sweet milk, ylang ylang, vanilla, and a hint of peppermint." For comparison shopping purposes, they sell soap at $7 CAD, perfume $14 CAD, with a large selection of both, along with other bath and body items.)
  • The Soap Box Company (they have a few exclusive perfumes and soaps, including Sthenno, "Rich amber resin, whiskey, tobacco, coconut meat, and white musk." They have a large selection that includes some bath and body items, with soaps generally costing around $7 and perfumes generally around $14.95, though this varies by scent.)
  • The Rhinestone Housewife (they have a few exclusive scents, including Genteel, "Aniseed, 2 vanillas, dry amber, sugar, and cashmere musk with wisps of fine sandalwood and cedarwood." They carry soaps for $7.50 and perfumes for $13 to $16, varying by scent.) 
So, pretty low-cost for indie perfume, but maybe a little on the high end for soaps (to be honest, if I'm spending $8 on a bar of luxury soap, most of the time I'm probably usually going to pick up a bar of the non-indie Le Mistral triple-milled soap, which is larger, feels nice, and smells divine... sorry, indies!)

I didn't research the differences in shipping prices and policies between these retailers, let alone coupon codes, loyalty points, free samples, or any other perks of ordering from one or the other. You can see from the prices above that you may be able to pay a bit less for a product if you order from some of the retailers with a smaller selection.

You can also check Arcana's list to see if you have any local retailers, so you can save the cost of shipping and check out the wares in person before buying.

Customer Service, TAT, Shipping:
N/A. I've never contacted Arcana directly, and I think the policies for each individual retailer would be more relevant here in any case. I know that at least Pretty Indulgent and The Soap Box Company will ship internationally; possibly others will as well.

Personal Thoughts:
I think Arcana is one of the higher-quality perfume indies out there, so I would absolutely recommend buying a sample or bottle or two, and/or trying out their soap if a scent appeals to you.

My favorites include:
  • Alec d'Urberville, from the Tess of the d'Urbervilles collection: "The profligate essence of an aristocratic libertine. Amber resin, charred Madagascar vanilla, French cognac, clove, sandalwood, and dark musk." This perfume appalled me with its sheer clove-iness at first, and I sold it, but my thoughts kept returning to it and I ended up repurchasing it. It's a warm, dark, sexy, spicy clove and vanilla scent... I wouldn't wear it every day, but it's great to dab on for the occasional foxy swagger.
  • Bloom, from the Cocos Nucifera collection: "Madagascar vanilla, tuberose, monoi, starfruit, and vintage patchouli." Hnnnnngggh fruity vanilla. I guess this is kind of a trashy thing to enjoy, but I also enjoy my Cosmos and pina coladas, OK? It smells bright and fresh and fruity, but a real-smelling, citrussy, slightly mysterious fruitiness from the starfruit note, and it's buoyed up by creamy vanilla and fragrant tropical white flowers. I really love this one. 
  • Philtre #4: Consumed: "In its wake, this potion is said to leave a trail of ravenous longing and insatiable lust. Three gingers (fresh ginger, ginger extract, and gingerbread) are blended with a cheesecake accord, French cognac, butter co2 extract, caramel, black pepper, sugared milk, copaiba balsam, a pinch of ho wood, and a shameless slap of cassia." Foodie lovers: if you've ever wanted to smell exactly like ginger cheesecake, this is IT. Look no further. This smells AMAZING but also EXACTLY like cheesecake, which may or may not be what you want in a perfume. Unsophisticated but delicious.
  • Devilish: "Shaking off vanilla’s unfair reputation for namby pambyness, this infernally dark and smoky fragrance comes complete with licks of fire and sulfurous wafts of brimstone. The devil really does have all the best scents." Simple, but smells more expensive than it is. A smoky, long-lasting, and vaguely marshmallowish vanilla along the lines of CB I Hate Perfume 7 Billion Hearts
I know Queen Crossbones, a soft honey-coconut-Egyptian musk scent, has quite a following, so you might want to put that on your short list as well--it seemed nice but unremarkable to me, but I can see why someone might fall in love with it.

Also, if you're looking for last-minute gift ideas, I think Arcana's products are packaged beautifully, generally tastefully scented, and would be good for gifting--there are certain indie products, bless their hearts, that I would be embarrassed to give as a gift, due to amateurish or tacky labels or raunchy names. Swashbuckler or Mutiny soaps would be nice gifts for men who like pirates. Croque Mitaine for a kid? Miss Havisham for a friend suffering from a recent breakup? I don't know, I'm not great at picking gifts for people, but I do think these are nice-looking things, they smell good, and the soaps make you clean. What else do you want?!

Note that their products are vegetarian, but not all vegan (the bar of soap I have lists Tussah Noil silk as one ingredient).

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Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Swatch Post : BeautyBarBaby: Black & Blue, Nectar, Salsa, and Siren!

From the website: Beautiful deep blue with purplish black undertones

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, tin oxide, iron oxide, sericite, ferric ferrocyanide, mica

Personal Comments: A dark, navy blue that is listed as a liner/shadow. It has a mostly matte base with shimmer added. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A neutral shimmery peach shade

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, tin oxide, iron oxide, sericite, carmine, mica

Personal Comments: A light pink, Nars Orgasm-esque shade with that golden overlay. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A neutral pinkish coral peach shade with golden undertones

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, tin oxide, iron oxide, sericite, mica

Personal Comments: A mid-pink color with gold shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A smokey mauve/plum shade with pink undertones

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, tin oxide, iron oxide, silica, sericite, mica

Personal Comments: This is a great color. It's a taupey-pink. The base shade is a purple tinted taupe but it has a strong pink shimmer to it. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Perfume Review: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab Snow White




Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab's limited edition Yule perfumes recently went up on the site, along with an unfortunately rather buggy redesign of the site. The Yules are typically a mixture of new and returning seasonal scents; Snow White is one of the most popular recurring scents. While the bottle I have of this scent is an older vintage, 2011, I don't think the scent changes that much from year to year, so the review may still be helpful. In addition, Pink Snowballs is very similar to Snow White, so I'll review it alongside (this version is from 2009).

Price: $23 for a 5 mL amber glass bottle of perfume oil with polyseal cap, of either scent.
Samples: Not available
(More details about price and shipping can be found in our Company Overview post about Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.)
Description from the website:

  • Snow White: "A chilly, bright perfume: flurries of virgin snow, crisp winter wind and the faintest breath of night-blooming flowers."
  • Pink Snowballs: "A lighthearted winter scent: chilly vanilla rose snowballs! Dainty, soft, and certainly unfit for flinging!"

Snow White is a weird and polarizing scent. It's one of the most artificial-smelling perfumes I've tried from BPAL, though not necessarily in a bad way--it smells like nothing else to me, not so much a cheap imitation of something natural as its own entity. I've seen the scent described as almond, coconut, mint, lily musk, Play-Doh, and Scotch tape.

I think it smells closest to almond extract plus Scotch tape, or possibly a floral nail polish remover with the brain-cell-killing chemical reek dialed down. It's a clean and unsweet scent, rather plasticky and Play-Doh-like, but with hints of soft white flowers and almond under the bizarre synthetica. It is strong as all get-out, definitely headache-inducing if you apply too much, and lasts forever and a day.

I can see someone really hating it--I really hate it myself sometimes--but other times I'm absolutely in the mood to smell like a white plastic Play-Doh golem wreathed in almond blossoms, and I put the tiniest dab on my pulse points, and go swanning about in my Snow White force field, hoping I don't run into anyone with scent sensitivities.

Pink Snowballs is essentially Snow White with a generous helping of sugared rosewater poured over the top. It smells a little more normal than Snow White because of the familiarity of the scent of roses, but has a similar synthetic base and the potential for even more headachiness if overapplied, with the combined aggressive powers of Snow White + roses. Personally, I reach for it more often than Snow White, since the rosewater element makes it more wearable for me.

What perfumes do you like to wear for the holidays? Do you have your eye on anything from the BPAL Yules this year?

(Oh, and by the way, Violette Market's Creatures of the Snow are back this year--if you were intrigued by my review of the discontinued scent Splendor and Magnificence, Pink Vanilla Glacier from this collection looks pretty similar.)

Note: this scent is vegan.

Monday, December 16, 2013

Swatch Post! Scaredy Cat Cosmetics : Smooze, Nouveau, Ring-A-Ling, and Rose Gold!

From the website: A vibrant vicious violet that will ride you hard and put you away wet

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, ferric ferrocyanide, caramine, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, silica

Safe for: eyes and face.

Personal Comments: Blurple! This is a bright blue/purple color that has added pink shimmer to make it lighter in the light. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: Golden Yellow

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Copper, Zinc, Silicone Dioxide. Boron Nitride, Magnesium Myristate, Silica.

Safe for: eyes and face. Nouveau is a vegan formula.

Personal Comments: A solid gold with a metallic finish. This is a bright, untarnished gold. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: Ring-A-Ling is a soft transluscant pink with a violet shift.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Carmine, Boron Nitride, Magnesium Myristate, Silica.

Safe for: eyes and face.

Personal Comments: Ring-A-Ling looks like it glows. It's the subtle pink/purple shimmer over the sheer base shadow that gives this effect. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: Rose Gold

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Iron Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Caramine, Boron Nitride, Magnesium Myristate, Silica.

Safe for: eyes and face.

Personal Comments: Rose gold is, well, a rose gold. But with a much stronger red than is usual in these shades. The red is bold and almost overpowers the gold. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.