Thursday, October 31, 2013

Company Overview: Lou Lou's Soaps, Scrubs, & Scents

Company Overview: Lou Lou's Soaps, Scrubs, & Scents
The itsy bitsy sample drams from Lou Lou's will steal your heart
You'd think it'd be an obvious connection - Etsy and indie cosmetics are a natural pair, right? Somehow that slipped my consciousness, so when I first realized, "I can find perfume on ETSY?!" I was sufficiently stunned. "But I thought it was just full of whimsical owl jewelry!"

Luckily, Etsy IS full of fantastic indie cosmetics and fragrances, and I recently had the exciting first-time-shopper experience at a little store called Lou Lou's Soaps, Scrubs & Scents. This was the epitome of impulse shopping for me, and very much out of character to boot. Within the span of 20 minutes I went from not knowing Lou Lou's existed to completing my Paypal checkout. So what's all the fuss?

Lou Lou's Soaps, Scrubs & Scents


Inspired by her love of soap making, Evelyn's shop (named after her mother) is a curious collection of bath and body items, the primary focus on soaps and fragrances. She makes it a point to incorporate "healthy" alternatives such as essential oils and paraben-free ingredients. It's clear she has a lot of fun exploring new products and scents judging by the new collections she puts together, so I'm expecting neat things from her shop in the future!

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Swatch Post! Chinovi Cosmetics Blushes!

From the website:  Bianca is a brown based red with loads of orange and gold shimmer. It applies strong and can be blended out for a medium coverage.

Ingredients: magnesium stearate, carnauba wax, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, mica
 
Personal Comments: This is my favorite blush of the three! It's a brick red and the glitter is much more subtle than the others. When blended out, it's still quite pigmented so apply with a gentle hand. Applied over bare skin. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  Gidget is a bubblegum pink with a purple base and lots of golden shimmer. It initially applies semi-heavy but can be blended down for a sheer coverage.
 
Ingredients: magnesium stearate, carnauba wax, iron oxide, manganese violet, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, carmine, mica

not vegan

Personal Comments: One of those "you can't go wrong" blushes. It's a soft pink color that blends out easily into a coral shade. Applied over bare skin. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  Jocelyn is a pinky purple. When first applied, it is more purple than anything. After blending it out a bit, she turns more pinky.

Ingredients: magnesium stearate, carnauba wax, manganese violet, ultramarines, titanium dioxide, red #30, mica
 
not lip safe.

Personal Comments: Though very purple in the jar, this actually swatches as a bright pink color! This is a common characteristic in a lot of purple based blushes. The glitter in this blush "sticks" the most and is the most obvious when blended. Applied over bare skin. This picture was taken outside in natural light.





Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Perfume Review: Darling Clandestine Spurn


Fellow perfume enthusiast AG kindly offered to send me a bottle of Darling Clandestine Spurn, part of Darling Clandestine's series of limited edition Halloween 2013 perfumes; it arrived just in time for me to test and review for Halloween!

Price: $13 for an 8-mL/2-dram clear glass dropper bottle of perfume oil, or as part of the Halloween perfume set, which includes 4 perfumes for $44.
Shipping: $3 for shipping in the US ($0.70 if shipped with another item); international shipping starts at $5 for Canada, $9 elsewhere, and she will ship to anywhere but Italy and the United Arab Emirates.
Samples: Listed by request in the Etsy store, 3 for $3.50. (I'm not sure if there are any restrictions regarding limited edition perfumes.)

(More details about price, shipping, etc. can be found in our Darling Clandestine Company Overview.)

Description from the website: "At each silence, the ache of the blade that released your indecorous wrath. Twist it.

Spurn is part of my four-scent suite of special-edition Halloween fragrances. It’s fierce and passionate, with bright bursts of pomegranate, tempered with aged wood and haunted by marigolds. Unisex to feminine. It unfolds magnificently on the skin, tangy at first, and ending very clean.

Spurn appears *only* in a beautiful slim 2-dram clear bottle, approximately 8 mL, about the size of my Aequitas and Morderteile Kelah bottles, but round, with a precise little dropper top. This special-edition fragrance is *not* available in solids.

DarlingClandestine Halloween fragrances are highly potent and suspended in a base of sweet almond oil. Not for folks with nut allergies, sensitivities to fragrance or essential oils, or women who are pregnant or nursing."

My thoughts:

I instantly loved the packaging for this perfume. Clear glass isn't actually the best storage for perfumes since it allows light to break down the juice inside, so anything in clear glass should be stored in the dark, but the clean little dropper bottle with its moody black and white photo label looked clean, modern, and instantly appealing. The glass dropper alleviates the need to purchase a separate wandcap for application, although you do run the risk of accidental perfume overdose if you squirt it everywhere.

As far as the scent itself: my first thought was actually that it smelled oddly waxy to me, like snuffed-out candles, but quite not the pure honeyish scent of beeswax; a slightly dirty, skin-musky, oily basenote that surprised me. Not enough to make me actually call this an animalic scent, but there's something organic-smelling that would keep me from calling it a "clean" scent. I'm not sure what this element is. The marigolds, which can smell bitter? Something funny going on with the almond oil carrier oil?

Aside from the waxy smell, which dominates my general impression of the scent from opening to drydown, cologney dry wood (oak?) and pomegranate clamor for attention, with a breath of indeterminate spice on top (the tags in the Etsy listing suggest this is nutmeg). It smells slightly sweeter than a unisex scent to me, but it has a definite men's cologne vibe.

As it dries down, it starts to smell more floral to me, but a very dry, subtle, smoky floral, and the spicy note moves forward in the mix. I like it better in this stage; it smells more autumnal and a bit more clean; that waxiness starts to smell soapier to me, like white musk and laundry detergent.

Comparing it to the description: I wouldn't call it fierce, tangy, or passionate, personally. It feels more mellow and subtle, pliable and soft. The fruit never leaps out and jabs you, the wood doesn't assault you; it just kind of ambles along, warm and breathy, taking up space in your peripheral attention like a kindly brontosaurus.

Unfortunately, I can't say I like it too much on the whole. The red fruit, spice, and wax smell combine to make me think of cranberry-scented holiday candles. That's a bit unfair, since it's definitely more complex than a candle, and the wood tones down the fruitiness so that it's not cloyingly sweet, but it just doesn't speak to me personally.

Personellietea and Painted have reviews of Spurn up as well, along with the rest of the Darling Clandestine Halloween scents--go check them out!--and Beauty Infinitum is doing a giveaway of the Darling Clandestine Halloween collection, so up until October 31, you have a chance to win a full set of all four perfumes.

Note: This perfume is vegan.

Monday, October 28, 2013

Swatch Post! Scaredy Cat Cosmetics : Arctic Royale, Eire, Peacock Blood, and Robin the Cradle!


From the website: Soft and silvery like the shifting shimmer of the Arctic landscape. Arctic Royale is a silver-grey with a violet sheen that really pops when foiled.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, caramine, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, silica

Safe for: eyes and face. 

Personal Comments: A pearly light purple color with a satin finish. Slight hints of a multicolored glitter but nothing overwhelming. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: Feeling lucky? A wee bit of this Kelly green will send you to the end of the rainbow. A lush green with a light gold sheen

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, silica

Safe for: eyes and face. Eire is a vegan formula.

Personal Comments: A gorgeous green with a gold overlay. Eire really does remind me of a fiction's portrayal of Ireland. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A sultry burgundy wine with a smooth luxurious jewel-like quality. Sure to satisfy even the vainest of hearts.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, caramine, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, silica

Safe for: eyes and face. 

Personal Comments: A pretty generic gold/copper shade with plenty of glitter to it. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website: A pastel blue with an intense copper sheen that shifts and shines.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, silica

Safe for: eyes and face. Robin The Cradle is a vegan formula.

Personal Comments: Duochrome! The first layer is a very pale grey/blue which turns into a dark brown with heavy red undertones when applied over a black base. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Sunday, October 27, 2013

Collection Spotlight: Handful of Treats, Halloween 2012 by Femme Fatale Cosmetics




Before Halloween passes, I wanted to share Femme Fatale's 2012 Halloween Collection: Handful of Treats. Their 2013 collection, Spoils of Mischief, was recently released. Both of these collections are permanent, so don't fret - you don't have to purchase them before the end of this month :) I love their interpretation of Halloween and the colours (and names!) chosen since it's not the expected black/orange/purple. There are six loose mineral eyeshadows and one mineral based duochrome illuminator.


From the website: a pale redwood pink with a green duochrome, and blends out to have an almost brown undertone to it.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77861), Iron Oxide (77491), Carmine, Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Wax.

Non Vegan
Eye, lip, and face safe

Personal comments: I think this eyeshadow is the picture perfect example of why some eyeshadows need to be swatched to see their full effect! The actual product itself looks like a regular reddish burgundy colour, but once swatched, reveals itself to be much rosier with an added duchrome flash of green. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a very soft turquoise with teal tones, and subtle blue shimmer.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77681), Iron Oxide, (77491), Yellow #5 Al Lake, Blue #1 Al Lake, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Waz. Contains preservatives.

Vegan
Eye, lip, and face safe

Personal comments: Turquoise is one of my favourite colours, and this one pulls a bit more green than I'm used to (not a negative, just an observation). This would be very pretty in a spring/summer look. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a bright lime/grassy green with orange duochrome shimmer.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77861), Yellow #5 Al Lake, Blue #1 Al Lake, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Wax. Contains preservatives.

Vegan
Eye, lip, and face safe

Personal comments: This shade is not for the faint of heart! I imagine it would be great for a loud, fun party look. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a very pale lemon shade with a frosty blue duochrome finish. Sheer and great for highlighting. The base colour may disappear slightly on some lighter skin tones especially if Sour Suckerpop is not worn over a primer.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77861), Silica, Blue #1 Al Lake, Yellow #5 Al Lake, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Palmitic Acid, Carnauba Wax, Magnesium Stearate. Contains Preservatives.

Vegan
Eye, lip, and face safe

Personal comments: As said in the description, a primer helps to bring out all the tones. My face is around a MAC NW20/Meow Cosmetics' Frisky Siamese so the inside of my arm (where the eyeshadow in the photo is swatched) is probably a bit lighter than that. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a VERY pale lavender (which applies with a slight pink tone) with a frosty silver/green/blue colour-shifting finish. he base colour may disappear slightly on some lighter skin tones especially if Spearmint Candy is not worn over a primer.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77861), Silica, Mica, Iron Oxide (77199), Ferric Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines (7707), Carmine, Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Wax.

Non Vegan
Not lip safe

Personal comments: This is a very steely, cool, light purple, and showed more pink that I expected. It would be great as a lid highlight shade in any silvery/frosty eye looks Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a soft, silvery grey with very subtle pink shimmer, yet when applied the base comes out more purple/blue and the pink shift is also more noticeable.

Eyeshadow ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (77861), Black #2 (glycidoxphenol) propane/bisaminomethyl-norbornane copolymer, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Wax.

Vegan
Not lip safe

Personal comments: Similar to Spearmint Candy, but the base less pink, more purple and the sheen is pink instead of silver/green/blue. The Masquerade is also darker than Spearmint Candy, and would probably be a good transition/blending colour between Spearmint Candy and a darker shade. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

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From the website: a delicate vanilla-golden illuminator with a very subtle violet duochrome, and is a cross between Golden Lotus (illuminator) and Archangel (eye shadow). The violet shine in Witchberry is VERY subtle because it's a facial product, and we wanted it to impart a soft glow rather than a frosted shine.

Illuminator ingredients: Mica, Silicon Dioxide, Iron Oxide (77491), Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide (778161), Magnesium Stearate, Carnauba Wax.

Vegan
Eye, lip, and face safe

Personal comments: Don't be frightened by the 'duochrome' or 'violet' - it really is a soft, subtle highlight shade. It is very soft, smooth, and easy to blend out. Applied over bare skin; photograph taken outside in direct sunlight.

Purchase link

Saturday, October 26, 2013

Collection Spotlight : Curios Night by Innocent + Twisted Alchemy

Nothing to Disclose

It's that time of year! Indies have started rolling out their Halloween collections and they look fantastic. Here's the Limited Edition Curios Night collection by Innocent + Twisted Alchemy


One of my favorite things about ITA eyeshadows is how complex they are. Curios Night is a perfect example of this. Despite only being a 4 eyeshadow collection, there's a TON of color packed in and each color shines in a few different ways. But it's a balanced complexity. By adding a bright neutral (Like Candy) to the mix, Curios Night doesn't feel overwhelming but instead very wearable.


Apocalyptic Love Story and The Sweetest Night are super glittery but Haunted Heart and Like Candy have more of a shimmery finish.

Purchase Link

Individual shades after the jump!

Friday, October 25, 2013

Swatch Post! Notoriously Morbid : Nudist, Shenanimonkey, Shoes To Kill For, and Trench Coat!


From the website:  This is light brown matte with a tiny tiny tiny amount of sparkle.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, mica, magnesium stearate, iron oxide, carmine.

*lip, eye, face, and nail safe*
**NOT VEGAN**

Personal Comments: A matte tan shade with hints of orange.Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  A light brown with gold sparkles and a gold sheen.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Titanium dioxide, mica, magnesium stearate, iron oxide, carmine, ultramarines;pigment blue 29, iron oxide, CI pigment yellow 100, butane, calcium aluminum borosilicate, silica, tin oxide

**NOT VEGAN**
**NOT LIP SAFE**

Personal Comments: A pink-based beige color. The base eyeshadow is mostly matte with glitter in it. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  A bright red with lots of red sparkle!

Eye Shadow Ingredients: titanium dioxide, mica, magnesium stearate, carmine, iron oxide, ferric ferrocyanide, tin oxide, calcium sodium borasilicate.

*NOT LIP SAFE*
*eye,face,nail safe*
**NOT VEGAN**

Personal Comments: Almost more glitter than eyeshadow! The base is a very bold red with gold and red glitter. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  A taupe brown with silver sparkle and a gorgeous color pay off.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica,titanium dioxide, iron oxide, carmine, tin oxide.

*lip,eye,face,nails safe*
**NOT VEGAN**

Personal Comments: A medium brown shade with a gold shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Thursday, October 24, 2013

Company Overview: Dreamworld Hermetica



Nothing to Disclose

I found out about DreamWorld Hermetica from Portrait of Mai's post about the $5 promotional kit they were offering for a brief time in order to introduce customers to the company. I ordered the $5 kit in warm tones, with the Vapor base and Nekhbet II and III colors as my foundation choices. First class shipping within the U.S. was a very reasonable $3.25, so for $8.25 I received a total of one lip gloss, two mini jars of eyeshadows, one mini jar of blush, and 15 little baggies of powder. (I'll get to that in a moment.)

DreamWorld Hermetica used to be known as DreamWorld Minerals. They closed for a while, then reopened under the name DreamWorld Hermetica on August 1, 2013. The brand hadn't been on my radar previously, so I'm not sure about why they closed or how long they were closed before reopening and rebranding themselves--possibly for the owners to go back to school for esthetician training.

Swatches, top to bottom: Need, Dead Reckoning, Keys to the Repository, Fairey Queen, Chillaxin, Spellbook. Left side is swatched over Urban Decay Primer Potion, right side is swatched over UDPP and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. Photo taken in indirect sunlight, no flash.

Packaging

My samples came in a bubble wrap envelope with two plastic baggies inside. There was a nice handwritten thank-you note on the back of a business card (which seems to have been repurposed from before the shop closure--it doesn't bear the name Hermetica, and one of the URLs on the business card was crossed out with a Sharpie).

The Lip Wand is shrink-wrapped, which I appreciated. The ingredients are printed on a translucent sticker attached to the outside of the shrink wrap. None of the other items had ingredients printed on them.

The mini jars are clear on the bottom, with a black screw-on lid; two had stickers on the lid, and one had a sticker on the bottom. They were sealed with clear stickers, but on closer inspection, I found a scratch across the side of the lid of one jar, and slightly grubby fingerprints on the inside of the seal stickers. This makes me wary and a bit unhappy; although I didn't see signs of fingerprints on the insides of the jars, the presence of fingerprints and traces of excess eyeshadow/blush on the outside made the product seem a bit less hygienic and professionally packaged.

Grubby.

The smaller samples are in Ziploc baggies. Most of them had the name of the color printed on them on a small, round, white sticker; some also had the company name, and one just had the name of the color written in Sharpie directly on the baggie, instead of having an official sticker. Many of the colors indicate on the label if they are lip safe or not, which is a nice touch.

The sample packaging was quite annoying because I did not remember what was supposed to come in the kit, and nothing was printed with what type of product it was--so is this baggie of orange powder labeled "CHILLAXIN" supposed to be a blush or an eyeshadow? How about this shimmery, rust-colored "FAIREY QUEEN"? I had to look up the full list of what was supposed to be included in the kit to figure out the broad categories of the different little powder baggies, and then the individual color names to figure out what was supposed to be used where.

For the record, here is what came in my kit:
  • 1 full size Magick Wand Lip Gloss (or Magick Lip Wand? the packaging and website say two different things. 9 g/10 mL)--Summer Solstice, "soft coral"
  • 2 mini jars of shadows (0.5 g each)--Keys of the Repository (website lists this as Keys to the Repository) and Dead Reckoning
  • 1 mini jar of cheek color (0.5 g)--Need, described on the website as "bright coral with slight shimmer"
  • 2 shadow samples--I actually received five eyeshadow samples: Chillaxin, Fairey Queen, and three from the Hocus Pocus Halloween collection: 1693, described as "deep purplish brown in color", "Spellbook" (listed as Spell Book on the site), described as "a deep burgundy with multiple shimmers to indicate the spells that were used! " and Hallowed Ground, described as "a soft irridescent [sic] green with a warm undertone." 
  • 1 cheek or bronzer sample--I didn't receive this, as far as I can tell.
  • 1 Glo Worm sample--Mummy Glo, "a soft shimmer"
  • 1 Illuminating Powder sample--Banana Illuminating Powder, "Light Yellow, perfect for lighter skin tones with yellow undertones such as Tethys, Nekhbet, and Artemis, also works well to tone down redness."
  • 1 Illuminating Glo sample--Ectasy [sic], listed correctly spelled as Ecstasy on the website
  • 1 Creme sample--Butterscotch, silica and clay formula
  • 2 foundation samples--Nekhbet II and III in the Vapor formulation, which is what I requested; I also got four extra foundation samples that I had not asked for, Tethys III Vapor, Hestia III Vapor, Chang O III Luna, and Hecate III Cloud. Although some of these were listed in the neutral or olive foundation categories, they all had a yellow undertone and medium depth, which I appreciated, and I liked the fact that they included the other two foundation formulations so I could try them. 
To sum up, I didn't get my blush/bronzer sample, but I did receive three more eyeshadow samples and four more foundation samples than what I had asked for--all for a grand total of $5 plus shipping, a pretty great deal.

Selection

DreamWorld Hermetica offers a wide variety of products:

  • Mineral foundations, in a very respectable range of 25 different base colors, eight color depths, three different formulations and a color-correcting option called Tara 
  • Four different finishing powders/highlighters
  • Undereye and color-correcting concealer powders
  • Several different face and eye primers
  • Lots of eyeshadows
  • A few different lip products (lip gloss, lip tars, and an interesting palette called Lip Changlings [sic] with shades that are meant to change other lip colors--black to darken, blue to cool down a shade, etc.
  • Blush
  • Bronzer
  • "Nighttime minerals," something that seems pretty weird to me--a powder you're supposed to wear at night for skincare
  • Brushes

Vegan shopping experience

Ingredients are listed on a single, easy-to-reference page, but there seem to be many typos and omissions on this page, so I would email the company if you have questions on a specific product; some formulas appear to be vegan, but others contain ingredients like carmine and beeswax. The brushes are all synthetic and hence vegan.

Samples

Eyeshadow: mini jars available
Blush: mini jars available
Lip products: no samples available
Foundation: 1/2 tsp sample baggies available for $2 each

Cost

Here are costs for some of DreamWorld Hermetica's products:
Product Sample Full size
Foundation $2, 1/2 tsp $20.50, 45 g
Creme Finishing Powder $2, 1/2 tsp $15.99, 8 to 10 g
Undereye Concealer $1.50, 1/4 tsp $8.99, 3 g
Eye Primer n/a $10.99, size not listed
Eyeshadow $2.75, 1/4 tsp $7.99, 3 g
Lip Wands n/a $12.50, 10 g
Lip Chromes n/a $14.50, 15 g
Blush or Bronzer $2.75, 0.5 to 0.75 g $13.99, 8 g
Eternal night powder $3.50, 1/4 tsp $28.50, 10 g

A few comparisons to other indies: Fyrinnae charges $2.25 for a 1/4 tsp Arcane Magic eyeshadow mini, $6.25 for a non-Arcane Magic full size jar of 3 g. Meow charges $1 for a 1/4 tsp foundation sample. Shiro charges $8 for a 7 g jar of blush. This puts DreamWorld Hermetica's prices a bit higher than average, but they're not outrageous.

Customer Service

I have not contacted DreamWorld Hermetica with any questions.

Quality

Everything I tested aside from the Cloud foundation and highlighters seemed to be of good quality--and I suppose my quibble with the highlighting powders might be more an issue of personal taste than of quality.

TAT

I was impressed with how quickly my order shipped despite its being placed during the popular $5 promo. I ordered on September 26, and my order was shipped on September 28.

Shipping

DreamWorld Hermetica will ship anywhere in the world, including Italy, which is unusual--not sure if it's due to import taxes and regulations or an unreliable postal service, but I've seen a lot of vendors online state that they'll ship anywhere in the world except Italy.

DreamWorld's shipping page states it's $4.50 for first class shipping, $24 for Priority Mail, but when I made a sample cart and checked shipping for Australia, first class shipping for samples started at $5, or $10.95 for full sizes.

US shipping rates start at $3.25 (first class mail, samples only), or $4.85 for first class mail with full sizes/brushes included.

Canadian shipping starts at $4.25 for first class mail/samples, $9 for full sizes/brushes.

Personal Thoughts

OK, I tend to be annoyed by indie companies that make their websites sloppy, complicated, and difficult to navigate. I'm also annoyed by the general aesthetic that involves a confusing mishmash of names that are probably meaningful to the owner but mean nothing to anyone else. I don't want to have to use a glossary to navigate the site! Just tell me if something is a concealer or a highlighter or a finishing powder, full coverage or sheer, etc. DreamWorld is far from the worst offender out there, but part of me just wants boring old numbered foundation shades (or at least names that have something to do with standard colors, like Ivory and Caramel) instead of a list of names, letters, and numerals that sounds like the family tree of the Pharaohs--it's a hop, skip, and short sideways walk from "Nekhbet III V" to "Tutankhamen XVIII, Living Image and Ruler of the Upper Kingdoms of the Great River, Eternal God-King Who Offers Full, Bismuth Oxide-Free, Non-Nano Coverage for Oily And Acne-Prone Skins." There's nothing actually wrong with that, I guess, but I just feel vaguely embarrassed by it all.

Anyway, I actually hadn't explored DreamWorld's site much before ordering the intro package. Although I was impressed by the quick turnaround on my order, once I started looking around the site more, I was somewhat turned off by the typos, omissions, and inconsistencies. And the Delphi forum, which brought me back to the halcyon days of the mid-90s, when I was exploring AOL chat rooms and Geocities neighborhoods on my 14.4 modem (already blazing fast compared to the old 2400 baud...) All of these aesthetic complaints are really par for the course when shopping for indies, but I thought I'd mention it anyway, because I'm a curmudgeon.

The site is fairly easy to navigate, though, and includes skin swatches for most products, which is nice.

Swatches, top to bottom: 1693 eyeshadow, Summer Solstice lip gloss, Banana illuminating powder, Mummy Glo, Hallowed Ground eyeshadow, Ecstasy Illuminating Glo. Left side of the shadows is swatched over Urban Decay Primer Potion, right side is swatched over UDPP and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. Photo taken in indirect sunlight, no flash.
I'd been looking for a nice copper eyeshadow for fall and Keys of the Repository fit the bill--a glorious sparkly, metallic copper shade, much more orange-toned than it appears in the jar, where it looks more golden. I was quite happy with the eyeshadows in general; they had good lasting power, pigmentation, and blendability over my usual eye base, Urban Decay Primer Potion. I did a look over UDPP with Keys of the Repository on the mobile lid and 1693 blended into the crease, and it lasted for 12 hours with no creasing or fallout. Chillaxin was the only disappointment, as it looked very patchy over Pixie Epoxy, I think due to the matte yellow/orange base that didn't adhere and spread well over the Pixie Epoxy.

The Summer Solstice lip gloss seems thick, nonsticky, and comfortable to wear. However, I despise lip colors with lots of shimmer, and this is an almost metallic orange, something I'd never pick out for myself. It comes across as more of a frosty apricot color on the lips because it's not opaque, at least; you can see from the lip swatch that it doesn't look nearly so alarming on the lips as it does on the arm. I think it might work well layered over a red lipstick to tone it down.



The Banana Illuminating Powder is puzzling to me. Although it looks pale yellow and matte in the bag, it turns into a sparkly, rather silvery microglitter when applied to the skin. It might be good on the eyes, if it's eye safe (not sure if it is or not) but I would never wear this as a highlighter, or to tone down redness, God forbid. It reminds me of the sparkly fake snow stuff they spray on wreaths and plastic Christmas trees during the holidays. I suppose it might tone down redness in the same way that glitter flocking tones down the color of a spray of plastic hollyberries.

The Ecstasy Illuminating Glo was a similar glitterbomb, but with less of a white powdery base than the Banana powder.

The Mummy Glo is a far more subtle, white, shimmery highlighter, but it comes across a bit stark on my NC30 (medium yellow-toned) skin. If I apply enough for it to be visible, it looks sort of white and chalky. If I apply less or rub it in more, the highlight becomes invisible. It might be a nice alternative to Shiseido High Beam White--a similar white illuminator--but I am not sure how the texture compares. I found it hard to hit the sweet spot between invisible and obviously white.

The Butterscotch Creme finishing powder looked chalky and dull when applied heavily, but rubbed in very nicely, becoming undetectable.

The Nekhbet foundation shades were a bit too yellow on me, but the Vapor formulation gave a very nice, light, comfortable finish (Tethys III was the closest, I think, but still didn't feel like a perfect match). Luna felt nice as well, but Cloud felt frankly awful--extremely gritty, coarse, and dusty, like rubbing dirt on the skin. It did give full coverage, but as the color match wasn't perfect for me, this was a bad thing. It seemed like a kabuki mask.

Swatches, top to bottom: MAC Studio Tech cream foundation in NC35 for reference (at the wrist, nearly invisible) Butterscotch Creme finishing powder, Nekhbet II Vapor, Nekhbet III Vapor, Hestia III Vapor, Tethys III Vapor, Hecate III Cloud, Chang O III Luna, applied heavily with fingers over skin primed with moisturizer and sheered out a bit to the left side of the photo. Photo taken in indirect sunlight, no flash.

Notes on the color products I received:
  • Need is a warm, medium strawberry pink shimmery shade, leaning coral, almost metallic if built up.
  • Dead Reckoning is a buttery, warm, almost peachy yellow/orange gold color
  • Keys to the Repository is a metallic caramel copper with golden microglitter
  • Fairey Queen is much lighter than it looks in the baggie; it's a very shimmery light rose pink that could almost be a rose gold from some angles
  • Chillaxin is a medium orangey yellow with a matte base with matching shimmery microglitter
  • Spellbook is a gorgeous warm plummy chestnut brown packed with golden microglitter
  • 1693 is a beautiful shimmery dark mauve with an almost wet shine to it. It reminds me a bit of Urban Decay Toasted eyeshadow or Laura Mercier's Amethyst Caviar Stick
  • Hallowed Ground is a spectacularly luminous shimmery pale aqua, a bit like MAC Tilt. It's a bit sheer on its own, but opaque and glowing over Pixie Epoxy.
  • Summer Solstice is an extremely shimmery sherbet orange that is sheer enough to let natural lip color peek through slightly.
Bottom line: DreamWorld Hermetica is worth checking out, although I'd give the Illuminating Powders/Illuminating Glo powders and the Cloud foundation a pass--out of the products I received and tested out, I would recommend the eyeshadows and Vapor foundation in particular, if you can find a good color match. My favorite eyeshadows were Spellbook, 1693, and Keys to the Repository. Hallowed Ground is also extremely beautiful, but not really my color.

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Swatch Post! Madd Style Cosmetics : Seedless, Ship of Fools, Nana's Tea Party, and xRay Spex!


From the website:  SEEDLESS is a bubble gum pink with green glitter and a green duo chrome!

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Magnesium Myristate, Glitter Powder.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face.

Personal Comments: A bright pink eyeshadow with a metallic golden finish. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  SHIP OF FOOLS is a blueish green with gold highlights and sparkle.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Magnesium Myristate, Glitter Powder.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes and face.
This shadow is not approved for use on the lips.

Personal Comments: I love this eyeshadow. It's a dark green shadow with a gold shimmer to it. In certain lights, the green takes a blueish cast. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  NANA'S TEA PARTY is a beautiful sky blue with a pink duo chrome.

Eye Shadow Ingredients:  Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Iron Oxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes and face.
This shadow is not approved for use on the lips.

Personal Comments: A moderately sheer blue shade with hints of a pink shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.


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From the website:  XRAY SPEX is semi-sheer off white tone with a heavy pink duo-chrome shift.

Eye Shadow Ingredients: Mica, Iron Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Magnesium Myristate.

This shadow is approved for use on eyes, lips and face.

Personal Comments: A creamy beige-y color with pink notes and plenty of shimmer. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.




Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Perfume Review: Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab's Chimera





The classical Greek chimera was a fire-breathing monster cobbled together from a lion, a goat, and a snake. The word is now generally used to refer to any one of a number of piecemeal entities--for example, a virus containing genetic material from other organisms, or a fossil reconstructed using parts from two different animals.

However, Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab's Chimera perfume oil feels perfectly unified and coherent, and smells much nicer than anything involving a goat (or, I imagine from my visits to the zoo, a lion or a snake). Warm and spicy, it's one of my favorite perfumes for fall and winter, and it's always readily available from the BPAL General Catalog, so I thought this would be a good time to share it with you in case you're looking for a new fall scent.

Price: $17.50 for a 5 mL amber glass bottle with polyseal cap.
Samples: Available for $4.00 or as part of a 6-pack for $22.
(More details about price and shipping can be found in our Company Overview post about Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.)
Description from the website: "The fiery, volatile scent of cinnamon, thickened by myrrh, honeysuckle, and copal."

Chimera is a perfume from the Bewitching Brews section of BPAL's general catalog. I avoided it for a long time because I thought I hated cinnamon and resins--I had smelled several other spice-themed perfumes incorporating cinnamon, and they tended to smell very dry, bitter, and sharply spicy, almost burning my nose; and I thought myrrh and copal would smell too "new agey" for me. The description of the cinnamon as "volatile" and "fiery" didn't help with my worries about this one. I finally overcame my fear of cinnamon and resins to give this a shot, and it turned out to be one of my favorite perfumes from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab.

The cinnamon is definitely the dominant note, so if you straight-up hate cinnamon, this isn't going to be for you. However, it's much softer than many other cinnamon scents I've tried, smelling a bit more like cinnamon buns than straight cinnamon sticks or gum. In other words, it doesn't burn my nose, although it sometimes stings my skin a bit if I apply it somewhere sensitive like my neck. If you have an issue with this, try applying to your hair or clothes or using a scent locket so the perfume isn't touching your skin directly.

The honeysuckle comes across to me as a creamy, rich vanilla sweetness, and the resins serve only as a mellow, slightly earthy-smelling base to temper the cinnamon note--they're not dominant at all. Chimera melts smoothly into the skin as it dries down, until you have a warm, sweet, soft cinnamon richness seeming to waft from your pores. It has a good throw, and good longevity; I can see this being objectionable to some people, but I find it more complex and pleasant than, say, straight cinnamon potpourri.

Over time, the cinnamon mellows and fades a bit, but it is always present in the scent--it doesn't undergo any huge transformations as it dries down, but the creamy floral and resin base becomes ever more dominant, making the scent seem a bit more mysterious, and leaning into smooth, rich vanilla-amber territory more than woodsy, dry spice.

Sometimes I top this off with a drop of a more straightforward vanilla scent to increase the sweetness and creaminess, like Lavanila Pure Vanilla or BPAL Madagascan Vanilla Rum. Other times, the extra sweetness feels inappropriate, and I wear Chimera alone.

This is one of BPAL's easier scents to appreciate--it's pleasant, not too heavy, and doesn't take a highly sophisticated nose to pick out the intent behind the scent. Sometimes I'm worried that a more unusual perfume will leave me smelling weird or gross when I go out in public, but Chimera reminds me of tromping through leaves in cool fall weather, or baking in a cozy house in the winter--universal signifiers of comfort.

What perfumes do you like to wear as the weather cools down?

Note: this scent is vegan.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Link Love 10/21

AG gives us an overview on A-England.

Check out Luna's post about de Leon Cosmetics balms and glosses!

Linda swatches some products from Notoriously Morbid.

Estelle shares products from Dreamworld Hermetica.

Jess writes an informative post about Project Undefined.


This link love is brought to you by the facebook group Makeup Monstrosity! Come check us out.

Swatch Post! Kiss My Sass Cosmetics : Dove Gray, Metamorphosis, Nessie, and Piercing Parlor!

Nothing to Disclose

1/23/2014 Note: Kiss My Sass Cosmetics has recently re-named their shop to All That Sass. Purchase links have been updated.


From the website:  a matte light gray

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, iron oxide

Safe for: eyes, lips, face & nails

Vegan: yes

Personal Comments: A sheer, completely matte, light grey color. Pretty straightforward. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

Purchase Link - Discontinued

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From the website:  blue with a golden sheen

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, ultramarines, tin oxide, ferric ferrocyanide

Safe for: eyes, face & nails (NOT lips)

Vegan: yes


Personal Comments: A matte blue base with silver glitter. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

Purchase Link - Discontinued

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From the website:  green/blue with violet sparkles

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate, chromium oxide green, ultramarines, iron oxide, tin oxide, silicon dioxide

Safe for: eyes, face & nails (NOT lips)

Vegan: yes

Personal Comments: Nessie is a matte, moss green, eyeshadow with glitter particles in it. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

Purchase Link - Discontinued

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From the website: silver with a metallic sheen

Eye Shadow Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, aluminum powder, silicon dioxide, zinc oxide, magnesium stearate, iron oxide

Safe for: eyes, face & nails (NOT lips)

Vegan: yes


Personal Comments: Another light gray shade. Piercing Parlor is a shimmery shadow with glitter. Applied over Urban Decay Primer Potion and Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy. This picture was taken outside in natural light.

Purchase Link - Discontinued